Evening Standard, 13 February
Fay Maschler at Tom’s Place

Since the time I overheard two fat-cat businessmen in a restaurant bar discussing the killing they were going to make in carbon futures, whenever I hear the phrase eco-friendly I reach for my wallet. From congestion charge to - as of last week - an ethical chippie in the heart of Chelsea, I have yet to be shown up as unnecessarily cynical.
Tom’s Place - Evening Standard magazine review in full >>

Time Out, 12 February
Guy Dimond at Tom’s Place

Chef Tom Aikens appears to have undergone a Damascene conversion. His book, Tom Aikens Cooking published in 2006, revealed a chef whose interest in fish stock sustainability extended little further than his deep-fat fryer. "Cod used to be widely available, but now, because of overfishing, it is one of the most expensive fish to buy. I just hope that we never run out of it for fish and chips," wrote Aikens. His book went on to recommend over-farmed wild fish, and listed recipes for at-risk species such as tuna, cod, salmon and sea bass while seemingly not giving two hoots about the environmental implications.

Metro, 13 February
Marina O’Loughlin visits William Curley

And now we've got our very own dessert bar, in cute, villagey Shepherd Market, Mayfair, thanks to talented and multi-award-winning chocolatier William Curley. Following the success of their Richmond shop, William and his wife, Suzue, have launched themselves uptown in this jewel of a store, all twinkling glass displays groaning with signature chocs, often (maybe due to fellow patissier Suzue's influence) demonstrating a delicate, Japanese flavour: jasmine tea, perhaps, or yuzu.
Metro review in full >>

Bloomberg, 8 February
Richard Vines visits L'Oranger

A wine tasting was under way downstairs at L'Oranger as I arrived for lunch. The manager asked if I'd like to join in while I waited for my guest. Is champagne French?
Around me, people were spitting. I rather liked what was on offer. I swallowed. You don't need free wine to enjoy L'Oranger, though it helps as the place is far from cheap. In fact, it is one of London's most expensive restaurants.
L’Oranger - Bloomberg review in full >>

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