Openings, reviewsWhat’s on the menu? - A round-up of the latest restaurant reviews(17 April 2008 16:27)Are You Ready To Order, 17 April Saf London is a new gourmet raw vegan restaurant, not a geographical area south of the river Thames, as described in the local patois. There are other Safs, in Germany and Turkey and while Munich-Istanbul-Shoreditch may not quite have the same cachet as Paris-London-New York, it suits Saf, which is quirky and unique. Evening Standard, 16 April Should you hold a knife to my throat and force me to say which one of the chefs in the Gordon Ramsay group I thought was the best, my answer would be Jason Atherton. Actually, I’d admit it without any coercion. I first knowingly tasted Atherton’s cooking about eight years ago when he was chef at L’Anis, owned by Claudio Pulze. Since Skegness-born Atherton had previously worked for Pierre Koffmann, Nico Ladenis and Marco Pierre White I had doubtless consumed something prepared by him before then, but it was at L’Anis — an address that has seen many incarnations including that of a bank and is now Zaika — that I thought I had spotted a singular talent. Article continues below
Read the full review here >> Metro, 16 April Just outside Ramsgate is one of the best fish and chip shops in Britain, the Newington Fish Bar. It dishes up firm-fleshed, pearly fish that falls into fat flakes at the touch of a fork, encased in startlingly good batter that's crisp and light, like British tempura. Fat is kept at just the right temperature so that fish steams to perfection inside its batter sarcophagus, while the exterior is all glorious crunch. Time Out, 15 April Here's a surprise. As the second branch in a growing chain (the first at Battersea Reach), we'd expected simple wines and modest food at this little French brasserie. Instead, the wine list shows enthusiasm and daring from the two French owners. The list is nearly all French, but with good producers and a range of styles across prices (with plenty of interest for under £20 per bottle, and more than a dozen choices by the glass). They also have a great selection of beers, proper French ciders and dessert wines. And the menu might be short, but they do it well. Bloomberg, 11 April Baked Alaska isn't the sort of dish you generally expect these days in smart London restaurants, where ice cream is as likely to show up with mustard as in sponge cake. Yet there is something exciting and dangerous about this classic, created tableside with flaming brandy. The combination of hot and cold, and the theatricality of the presentation, might be seen as a popular precursor to the dishes of Heston Blumenthal, whose menu at the Fat Duck includes hot and iced tea in one cup.
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