Openings, reviews

What’s on the menu? - A round-up of the latest restaurant reviews

(28 April 2008 14:42)

The Daily Telegraph, 26 April
Jasper Gerard visits Gordon Ramsay Plane Food at Heathrow Airport

Restaurants can be devilishly difficult to get into, particularly Gordon Ramsay's. But even this most exacting of chefs normally draws the line at forcing diners to queue with their passports in a building site. Ah, the delights of Terminal 5. Ramsay's Plane Food was to transform airport eating, saving passengers from refuelling mid-air on the scarcely air-worthy "all-day deli counter". But first one must touch down at the airside restaurant, past veritable continents of check-in desks and seas of hard hats: forget Hell's Kitchen, think Hell's Airport.
Gordon Ramsay Plane Food – Telegraph review in full >>

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The Independent, 26 April
Tracey MacLeod visits Café Boheme, London W1

It's one of life's enduring mysteries; how is it that, on the fringes of Soho, there are thriving branches of the (let's call it) Generic Scottish Steak House? How can all those punters have walked past dim sum restaurants, tapas bars, noodle houses, Italian trattorias, and decided that what they really, really fancied was a bog-standard steak and frozen chips? Still, finding a decent mid-priced meal in Soho can be elusive, even for the most cosmopolitan local. Which is why there's been a generally warm reception for Café Boheme, the Old Compton Street brasserie that relaunched a few weeks ago with a new menu, a new look, and a new chef.
Café Boheme– Independent review in full >>

The Independent on Sunday, 27 April
Terry Durack visits Restaurant Hélène Darroze, Paris

They say that Hélène Darroze and her two-Michelin-starred Left Bank restaurant will never be accepted by Paris. She is, after all, an outsider, from France's South-west, where both her father and grand-father were chefs. Le Figaro's restaurant critic even suggested she only gained her second star in 2003 because the Guide felt it should promote a female chef. In June, Darroze moves into The Connaught in London, so I popped over (j'adore l'Eurostar) to see what we will be getting. Foie gras, it seems. Five of the 15 starters and main courses on offer feature goose or duck foie gras. This is to be expected – it is the product of her region, her terroir, and her history – but this much foie gras in Mayfair may well produce picket lines and placards.
Restaurant Hélène Darroze – Independent review in full >>

The Observer, 27 April
Jay Rayner visits Artisan, Hull

Artisan is the kind of restaurant that makes me anxious, though not for obvious reasons. There are no shovel-faced bouncers on the doors, or stupid design features which make me want to punch someone. The room, which seats just 18, is low key and comfortable: dark wood tables, modish but unchallenging wine-orientated images on the walls, a view out into residential Hessle, a suburb of Hull hard by the Humber bridge. There is also nothing painfully overwrought on the menu. With just two choices at each course it is admirably short. The worst you could call it is unsurprising, but we don't all want to be surprised when we go out to eat. Most of the time we just want dinner.
Artisan – Observer review in full >>

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9th July 2008