Evening Standard, 14 May
Fay Maschler enjoys Alan Yau’s latest venture Cha Cha Moon
How to eat out in a credit crunch? Slurp a bowl of roast duck noodle for £3.50. “You can’t go on the Tube for that,” said one of my companions last week as he ate wok-fried cod and bitter melon with black beans and glass vermicelli for the very same price at Alan Yau’s newly opened Cha Cha Moon.
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Metro, 14 May
Marina O’Loughlin finds an oasis in the West End at Dehesa
Last week, I had lunch in Paris's venerable brasserie, Terminus Nord. To accompany my chateaubriand, I ordered chips. Instead of the seductive rustle of freshly cut, slender frites, all gilded and crisp from the hot oil, I got the leaden thunk of what were, almost certainly, frozen McCain jobs. (Or their French equivalent, M Câin?) Sacrilege.
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Read the full review here >> Time Out, 15 May
Guy Dimond finds the food at Hix Oyster and Chop House thrilling
‘The sucker table’, columnist and restaurant critic Jan Moir calls it. It’s the table where they put the losers, the nobodies, the ugly people, or the people who aren’t brassy enough to insist on somewhere better to sit. Like Jan, I’ve experienced more than my share of sucker tables, as you do when you visit a couple of hundred new restaurants every year, and do so anonymously. And the sucker table is where we were seated, behind the pillar at the top of the stairs.
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Bloomberg, 9 May
Richard Vines dines at dim sum restaurant D.Sum2
Dim sum is turning into the all-day breakfast of Chinese cuisine, a meal taken out of its cultural context and repackaged for popular consumption at any time. Wish I'd thought of it. In London, we enjoy our dim sum around the clock, just as we love our cappuccinos, and who cares if these were originally supposed to be pleasures of the morning? That sort of thinking might have you waiting until midday for your first glass of champagne. What a slippery slope that would be.
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