Openings, reviewsWhat’s on the menu? - A round-up of the latest restaurant reviews(30 June 2008 00:00)The Guardian, 28 June The Independent, 28 June Article continues below
When you first visit The Botanist, you think to yourself: here is a place that needs absolutely no help from a restaurant critic. You can feel (and see and hear) its howling grooviness, its 24-carat trendiosity, from 100 yards away. It radiates heat. It palpitates with excitement. It is the hippest place in town since Sir Hippesley Hipman opened a hip-replacement clinic, to cries of hip-hip-hooray. It is, indeed, full of Hooray Henries and Henriettas. The nouveau Sloane Rangers stride in and out of The Botanist as if they own the place (a sure sign of its success) and crowd along the pavement in braying herds. The men are burnished by suntans recently acquired in Ibiza, and wear blue jeans with frayed hems; the ladies mostly favour a Mariella Frostrup blonde bob, and wear cream tops to render their pale skin even paler. The Observer, 29 June The Sunday Telegraph, 29 June I loved Bingham, a restaurant in a boutique hotel, as soon as I walked in, for its tang of the 1990s. A similar restaurant opening now would have such a high finish it could be anywhere, from London to Hong Kong. This place belongs to a more innocent time, where you could tell Richmond even from Twickenham, probably, and you could buy fancy velvet furniture and shimmery wallpaper without necessarily having to rip out all the skirting boards. I started off in a glow of approbation, and this lasted me right up until pud. The Sunday Times, 29 June This week’s restaurant was going to be L’Autre Pied, but it turns out someone has already done it, and we have a strictish double- indemnity rule here, which is bloody lucky for the Other Foot, because they gave me two of the most tongue-scrapingly repellent dishes ever: fish in a custard-sweet sauce and banana soup. But we’re not going to do them. We’re going to do Quo Vadis. Which, actually, we have done before, but now it’s under new management. This was an old Soho Italian restaurant, famous for flambéeing everything. They’d set fire to your date if she were boring. And Karl Marx worked upstairs, which is now a cocktail bar and private club. Such is the irony of the march of political philosophy. Quo Vadis is Latin for “Where are you going?” Or the more common Soho translation of, “Going my way, dearie?”
By Janet Harmer Caterer Eats Out Source: CatererSearch |
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