Eric Lanlard – A Minute on the Clock
Master pâtissier Eric Lanlard has followed in the footsteps of the "king of chefs", Marie-Antoine Careme, for a new series of Glamour Puds on Channel 4. He spoke to Janie Stamford about his culinary hero and the recipes that made him so successful
Caterer Tell us about Glamour Puds
Eric Lanlard The new series is different from the first. I wanted to look at the history of pâtisserie and make use of a first edition copy of Le Pâtissier Royal Parisien by the "king of chefs", Marie-Antoine ("Antonin") Careme. He was famed mainly for his huge, architectural sugar centrepieces when he created banquets for Napoleon, the Prince Regent and the Tsar of Russia. For the series I followed in his footsteps around Europe, recreating an original recipe in each episode. We had to modernise them a little bit though. The recipes would start: "take 10kg of bones" just to get the gelatine out. I have to admire the way chefs used to work. It was a bit crazy.
Caterer Why is Careme so special to you?
EL He had a huge influence on our industry today. Careme had a big issue with chefs not being recognised for their skills: they were treated badly and worked long hours with low pay. He changed all of that - he invented the disciplines, the titles in the kitchen and put chefs in uniform. He was responsible for chefs wearing whites and created the toque (chef's hat). The whole of hospitality owes him a huge thank you for what he achieved.
Caterer Where did the series take you?
EL As well as France we went to St Petersburg, Vienna and Brighton. Every single Careme kitchen was the best you could get in those days. I used modern technology and even then it was challenging, but amazing to do it. In the opening episode, Michel Roux Jnr and I make an apple soufflé in the kitchen at Le Gavroche. I cooked it in little copper pans and Michel put it on the menu that night. It went down well with the diners.
Caterer Which recipe was most challenging?
EL We recreated a Careme dinner party at the Royal Academy for Lady Judge. The food was cooked by events caterer William Norris from an old menu used for the Prince Regent and I did the centrepiece. It took two weeks of very hard work to make. Like Careme's, it was very architectural and covered with petit fours, macaroons, truffles and pastries for guests to graze on throughout dinner.
Caterer What's next for you?
EL I've just finished the photography for a new book called Home Bake, which is coming out in September. It's a collection of simple, family-friendly recipes to make at home. There's been a huge baking revival in recent years. People say it is due to the recession, but I think that as people have started baking more they've been reminded of their childhood and they've realised it's not so difficult.
Glamour Puds airs on weekdays at 2.55pm on Channel 4.
