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Malcolm John's Fish & Grill hooks critical acclaim

Daniel Thomas
Thursday 22 January 2009 14:47
Fish & Grill

Malcolm John’s new Fish & Grill restaurant will succeed in convincing Croydoners to “swap fish and chips for Cornish line-caught sea bass”, according to Time Out reviewer Charmaine Mok 

While the menu at the south Croydon restaurant does feature classic beer-battered haddock with peas (purée, not mushy), the new venture is a smart one – both figuratively and literally, she writes.

“The attraction is simple – locally sourced fresh seafood and meaty grills served in a sophisticated yet welcoming atmosphere.”

Avista, the fine dining restaurant in The Millennium hotel in Grosvenor Square, reminds the Metro’s Marina O’Loughlin of Theo Randall at The InterContinental.

“A terrific chef let down by his environment, compelled to play to an audience of tourists either too lazy to explore or delivered there by the arcane society of concierges,” she writes. “To give you an idea of who it's aimed at, tiramisu is patronisingly translated as 'Italian cheesecake'.”

Meanwhile, Bloomberg’s Richard Vines is impressed by the reasonable prices and “honest” food at Bocca di Lupo, in Soho.

“A restaurant serving delicious and reasonably priced Italian food, with a wine list that is both exciting and un-greedy, should be a winning formula whatever the economy is doing,” he writes. “Right now, it looks like a stroke of genius.”

For these reviews in full and more, see What’s on the menu? To book a table, visit Caterer Eats Out.


Jacob Kennedy and Victor Hugo unveil details for new restaurant >>

Italian eaterie to replace Brian Turner venture >>

Avista, London >>

Malcolm John to open new restaurant in former Smollensky's Metro, Croydon >>


By Daniel Thomas


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