Dining at the Evesham hotel ‘profoundly strange’, says critic

Eating at the Evesham hotel in Evesham, Worcestershire can be a profoundly strange experience, according to the Guardian’s food critic Matthew Norman.  

He described a litany of oddities in his weekend review, including an owner who is a cross between Basil Fawlty and Gyles Brandreth, men’s loos that produces fart noises and drab décor reminiscent of a seaside boarding house.

Surprisingly, the food was not too bad with a starter dish of Roquefort and fig brûlée with pear and a pecan-studded salad receiving top marks.

Tracey MacLeod wrote in the Independent that while The Arch was a stylish townhouse hotel in central London, she was unsure that its restaurant, HUNter 486 – named after the old Marylebone dialling code – quite knew what its USP was.

She did like the cocktail bar – “gorgeous”, and the lounge – “sexy”, but described the actual restaurant as looking like a mini-canteen.  The food, too, was hit and miss.

Meanwhile, Jay Rayner of the Observer, enjoyed a great meal at the Pipe & Glass in South Malton, East Yorkshire.  He was initially put off by the news that the pub has recently received a Michelin star, which inevitably raised his expectations.

But he need not have worried, as he was served top quality food in a warm, friendly environment.

The Sunday Telegraph’s Zoe Williams also enjoyed exceptional cooking from chef Gemma Tuley at the Manson in London SW6.

After eating top notch starters and main courses – French and classic in character -  she ordered a “weird” sounding Jerusalem artichoke cheesecake with peanut butter ice cream which turned out to be a delicious surprise.

For this review in full and more, see What’s on the menu? To book a table, see Caterer Eats Out. Visit Guide Girl for the latest gossip from the fine dining world.


The Arch - a dream realised >>

Wallace & Co would not survive first round of Masterchef, says critic >>

Review of the reviews >>


By Janet Harmer

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