Loading
Caterer & Hotelkeeper Magazine

Tags:

Martin Wishart’s the Honours is more fine-dining than brasserie, says Joanna Blythman

Kerstin  Kühn
Monday 22 August 2011 13:07

Martin Wishart's new restaurant, the Honours in Edinburgh, is far too much on the fine-dining side for a brasserie, says Joanna Blythman.

Writing in the Guardian, Blythman criticises the execution of the menu at the new restaurant in the Scottish capital's New Town, adding the food is "indicative of a kitchen that views brasserie through a fine-dining lens".

The Times's food critic Giles Coren is horrified by the kitchen practices at the Riding House Café, the latest venture by the team behind the Garrison.

"They've built this place to make some 'theatre' out of the kitchen - positively encouraged us to scrutinise - and what I witnessed, sitting up at the bar in the best seats in the house, was a horror show," he complains.

Tom Kerridge's cooking at the Hand & Flowers in Marlow, Buckinghamshire, is everything you'd hope for, says Allan Jenkins, writing in the Observer, though your fellow diners may not be.

The Independent's Christopher Hirst is impressed by Paul Peters's cooking at the Black Swan hotel, which he says merits a detour to Helmsley in North Yorkshire.

The outside might be a mess, but the food at the Prince of Wales makes the pub in Putney, London SW15, a real find, says the Sunday Telegraph's Zoe Williams, while the Sunday Times's AA Gill says Pizza East is a great addition to Notting Hill, which improves without patronising.

In London, the Metro's Marina O'Loughlin suggests Silvena Rowe should get back on TV and out of the kitchen as she has a disappointing experience at Quince, while Fay Maschler says that, despite attempts to modernise, tradition is still the trump card at the Lyttelton restaurant at the Stafford hotel.

For these reviews in full and more see What's on the menu? Visit Guide Girl for the latest gossip from the fine-dining world.

By Kerstin Kühn

E-mail your comments to Kerstin Kühn here.

TabletalkIf you have something to say on this story or anything else join the debate at Table Talk - Caterer's new networking forum. Go to www.caterersearch.com/tabletalk

Caterersearch.com jobs

Looking for a new job? Find your next job here with Caterersearch.com jobs

Blogs on Caterersearch.com

Catch up with more news and gossip on all Caterer's blogs

E-newsletters

For the latest hospitality news, sign up for our E-newsletters

 

Recommended articles

Articles from the web

 
blog comments powered by Disqus
Profiting from 2012: Case Studies

Slash VAT, Boost business - Sign the petition now!

Latest Video

housekeeping

Video: highlighting housekeepers

In this week’s issue, guest edited by Raymond Blanc, we explore the important roles of housekeepers.

Watch here

The Caterer and Hotelkeeper discussion forum

  • Dingley Dell Flying Visits @ The Victoria Dingley Dell Flying Visits @ The Victoria
  • Dingley Dell Flying Visits @ The Victoria Dingley Dell Flying Visits @ The Victoria
  • Dingley Dell Flying Visits @ The Victoria: Mark Hayward Dingley Dell Flying Visits @ The Victoria: Mark Hayward
  • Dingley Dell Flying Visits @ The Victoria Dingley Dell Flying Visits @ The Victoria
  • Dingley Dell Flying Visits @ The Victoria Dingley Dell Flying Visits @ The Victoria
  • Dingley Dell Flying Visits @ The Victoria Dingley Dell Flying Visits @ The Victoria

Best of chef

Best of Chef – now available online

Best of Chef – now available online
View it now

Videos

Marcello Tully, Kinloch Lodge Video: Michelin-starred chefs turn out in force for Wellocks' chef conference Video: Highlights from Hotelympia 2012 Video: Foraging – why all the attention?
Marcello Tully
Masterclass
Watch the video here
Wellocks'
chef conference
Watch the video here
Highlights from
Hotelympia 2012
Watch the video here
Foraging:
why all the attention?
Watch the video here