The Daily Telegraph, 20 December
Jasper Gerard visits Corrigans Mayfair, London W1
Like ships, restaurants are launched with champagne and cheer but can sink without trace. This struck me when I arranged to meet a friend for lunch at a fleetingly fashionable London hang-out near Piccadilly. I'd dined there not long before when Prince Andrew had been at the next table with three impossibly gorgeous creatures. Upon my return, I paced the street looking for said restaurant, increasingly bemused. Belatedly, I realised it had morphed into the building site before me. My friend was inside being informed by a bunch of hard-hats: "Oh, the restaurant's shut, mate. And it ain't coming back, neither."
Corrigans - review in full>>
The Times, 20 December
Hugo Rifkind visits Andaman, St James’ Hotel & Club, London SW1
I don’t know where the hell they get off, calling a swanky St James hotel restaurant Andaman. Have you been to the Andamans? I have. They are a collection of picturesque, slightly brutal islands in the Indian Ocean, and I do not recall finding swanky hotel restaurants. Indeed, I do not recall finding restaurants at all. Or many hotels. There’s basically nothing there at all, beyond fishermen, palm trees, coconuts and the odd hippy with a hammock and a pan.
Andaman – review in full>>
The Observer, 21 December
Jay Rayner visits The Black Boy, Headington, Oxford
Because I have the boredom threshold of a three-year-old who's been at the Jaffa Cakes then dropped face first into the sugar bowl like Al Pacino in Scarface, I can become easily irritated by the claims made for each gastropub that opens. If I had a penny for every one that has tried to sell itself to me this year because its kitchen will be using seasonal and local produce I'd have, er, 37p. Local and seasonal is no longer a unique selling point. It's a minimum qualifying standard. Frankly, if a gastropub happened along declaring its commitment to unseasonal produce, flown in from a very long way away, I'd probably book my table immediately. (No, not really. For God's sake don't see it as an invitation.)
The Black Boy – review in full>>
The Sunday Telegraph, 21 December
Zoe Williams visits Chez Bruce, London SW17
I believe the site of Chez Bruce would be famous, whatever the restaurant, for its uninterrupted views across the mighty plains of Wandsworth Common, where the charmed south London sun beats down and the herds of yummy mummy graze. Especially at lunchtime. But on top of all that, the food has been fêted since before this country even had foodies. I came here for my mum’s 60th birthday, and sniggered because there was pig’s trotter on the menu. Twenty-three years old and sniggering at such a thing. The shame.
Chez Bruce – review in full>>
areyoureadytoorder.com
Jan Moir visits Sushinho, London SW3
Sushinho opened its doors for the first time this week. The question I am asking myself is, why did they bother? Even before Sushinho had served what turned out to be our Worst Dish of the Year, this lacklustre new fusion restaurant in Chelsea did enough to make even the most fizzing festive spirits nosedive into the pits of despair. A shame! For - in theory at least – their Brazilian/Japanese hybrid food sounded quite exciting.
Sushinho – review in full>>
By Janet Harmer