Matthew Fort gives Pierre Koffmann another rave review

Iconic chef Pierre Koffmann receives another rave review in this weekend's restaurant reviews, with Matthew Fort singing his praises.

The Guardian's food editor loves Koffmann's classic French food, which is classically cooked, full of flavour and worth every penny.

"Whether cooking the elaborate structures of haute cuisine, or the rougher-hewn beauties of brasserie tradition, Koffmann is a cook to his fingertips. There aren't short-cuts in his kitchen," Fort enthuses.

The Sunday Telegraph's Zoe Williams finds Roux at Parliament Square, London SW1, a bit too perfectionist and hushed for comfort, adding it lacks the love from chef-patron Michel Roux Jnr.

"The formality is unbreachable," she says. "I thought the whole point of business dinners, which these must surely have been, was that they were a great knees-up away from ordinary life; this looked more like a lesson in how to eat in front of Prince Philip."

Writing in The Times, Giles Coren reviews two restaurants before heading off to France for the rest of the summer: Redhook and Café Luc, neither of which disappoints but doesn't blow him away either.

In The Observer Alex Jenkins says if you're a fan of Sichuan-style "nose-to-tail" eating, Chilli Cool may just set your tastebuds on fire

For these reviews in full and more, see What's on the menu? Visit Guide Girl for the latest gossip from the fine dining world.

By Kerstin Kühn

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