An early morning camera call meant 16 chefs and waiters were obliged to be at London's Westminster Kingsway College by 6am last week so they could be interviewed and filmed for the BBC's Breakfast show. It all added to the tension and excitement that's part of the Young Chef Young Waiter final, as the 16 were about to compete for one of the most sought-after accolades for young restaurant professionals under 25.
Yet the mood later that morning was less frantic than in previous years. Peter Richards, head of industry relations at the college, was amazed when he came out of the kitchen where the eight chef finalists were preparing a three-course lunch with amuse-bouche for distinguished judges and guests: "I've never seen it so quiet in there. It's great - it's all so calm and organised."
Not that the chefs were getting an easy ride. Three courses and amuse-bouche for six covers - four for guests and two for judges - was a challenge presented to the finalists with a budget of no more than £35. While they were given a free rein with the amuse-bouche and starter, Dover sole, chosen by judging chair Philip Howard, was to be used as part of the main dish. He chose it primarily, he said, "because it gives people the opportunity to use a versatile ingredient. It's a bit old-fashioned, but I appreciate things done correctly, properly."
Dessert was also to be down to each chef's interpretation but had to be created using a basket of mystery ingredients presented on the day. Again, it was Howard's choice, and included vanilla pods, flour, butter, caster sugar, eggs, ground almonds, milk, double cream, eau-de-vie de poire, lemons, oranges, pears, pineapple, passion fruits, puff pastry, chocolate, ginger, lemon grass and tapioca.
Front of house, the tension was high by late morning. The eight finalist waiters paced the floor feverishly, waiting for the call to lay their tables for four guests. They had already completed the first four tasks of the day: opening and decanting a bottle of port, preparing steak tartare, demonstrating a knowledge of cheese, and dressing a table. Now it was only service to get through.
Russell Bennett, 25, from Northcote Manor, was competing for the second time and was more aware of what he was up against than most: "It is nerve-racking, but I'm more familiar with what's going to happen now," he said. "I'm up against seven other people who are good, if not better, than me. I think the judges are looking for a good mix of technical ability, confidence, stealth and personality. I just hope my personality comes through."
Judge Bob Walton was in agreement. "It's about the total package," he said. "We're looking for passion, technical ability and competence but also a natural waiter. I don't think it can be taught. The winner must have that certain something - the X factor."
By late afternoon, the waiting judges had found that "X factor" in Rodolphe Bertin, a 23-year-old supervisor from the Almeida, London. Bertin, who has worked at the Conran restaurant for nearly two years, stood out as an undisputed winner, according to Annie Schwab, who chaired the panel.
"The standard was very high this year, and there was very little to choose from between the second, third and fourth places, but Rodolphe Bertin had stood out as a clear winner by the second half of the competition," she said.
"All the competitors were nervous, but Rodolphe was always in control. His guests were impressed with how his service was evident but not overpowering. He handled every situation with accuracy and took care of any mishaps without batting an eyelid. He didn't put a foot out of place. He was the kind of waiter you'd want to have at a restaurant, where he'd give you great service without you knowing it."
Bertin, who is from the Loire Valley in France, was modest about his win. "I was very surprised," he said. "The level was very high and I was nervous at the beginning of the day. Everyone discussed the mistakes they thought they'd made after the tasks, and I was no different. I have no idea why I won."
Winning Young Chef 2003 must have come as even more of a surprise for Carl Newberry, senior chef de partie at Le Manoir aux Quat'Saisons. A former reserve, he only made it to the final after another finalist dropped out for personal reasons.
Howard was very clear about his reasons for choosing him, however, and was impressed by his simple menu. It began with an amuse-bouche of pumpkin and sweet corn soup with roasted hazelnuts. A starter of pan-seared foie gras, caramelised pineapple, lettuce and bacon salad and sherry vinegar sauce was followed by braised fillets of Dover sole, native oysters, oscietra caviar, cucumber and wasabi jus. Dessert, made from the mystery ingredients, was poached pear with lemon-infused sabayon on a millefeuille base.
Like Bertin, Newberry was modest about his win. "I was very nervous during the heats, but once I was through to the final I just wanted to do my best and try and enjoy the whole experience," he said. "It is a great honour to work with Raymond Blanc and Gary Jones, and I'm just so proud to have won the first competition I have ever entered."
Howard praised the simplicity of the meal and Newberry's execution as well as overall taste. "There was other food in the kitchen that day which was possibly more technical or more innovative, but Carl's was simply the most enjoyable to eat," said Howard. "It was simple, immaculately executed and delicious.
"There is always very little to go on with paper judging, so I was looking for someone who was professional, calm, productive and who loves what they do. Young chefs are often desperate to be clever and different, but Carl's food was mature, created with humility - that's what impressed me."
The winners
Chefs
1. Carl Newberry, Le Manoir aux Quat'Saisons, Great Milton
2. Steven Allen, Gordon Ramsay at Claridge's, London
3. Robert Thompson, Winteringham Fields, Winteringham
Waiters
1. Rodolphe Bertin, Almeida, London
2. Gaetan Morillon, Putney Bridge, London
3. Michael Sheldon, the Greenhouse, London
First prize is £2,000 in cash and a trip to Rioja, Spain. Second prize is £1,000 in cash and a weekend for two at Pennyhill Park hotel. Third prize is £500 in cash and £500-worth of equipment from Hansens. All finalists were given the chance to visit Champagne Louis Roederer in France.
The judges
Philip Howard, The Square, London (chefs chair)
Sally Clarke, Sally Clarke Ltd, London
Adam Byatt, Thyme, London
Chris Galvin, Wolseley Café & Restaurant, London
Bruce Poole, Chez Bruce, London
Theo Randall, River Café, London
Michel Roux Jnr, Le Gavroche, London
Germain Schwab, Winteringham Fields, Winteringham
Robert Weston, The Square, London
Annie Schwab, Winteringham Fields, Winteringham (waiters chair)
Eric Garnier, Racine, London
Patrick Fischnaller, Orrery, London
Philip Newman-Hall, Le Manoir aux Quat'Saisons, Great Milton
Jean-Claude Breton, Restaurant Gordon Ramsay, London
Robert Walton, Trunkwell Mansion House, Reading
Remy Lyse, Sofitel, London
Patrick Gaillard, Chewton Glen, New Milton
John Roberts, University of Derby College, Derby
The Competition
Sponsored by the Savoy Educational Trust, Champagne Louis Roederer and Rioja Wines, Young Chef Young Waiter was organised by the Restaurant Association and is now in its 19th year.