Now's the time to eat truffles! Not the prettiest of delicacies, truffles are the fruiting body of a fungus which grows underground. They're an expensive, seasonal delight, available from November to February.
Truffles have been known since Greek and Roman times and there are references to them in the writings of Theophrastus, a Greek philosopher who lived around 300BC. Since ancient times truffles have been thought to have mysterious powers and some even believe they have aphrodisiac qualities.
Most truffles grow naturally about one foot underground in the soil surrounding trees such as oak or beech. Attempts to grow truffles artificially have failed miserably and as a result, truffle-hunting is a serious, and potentially lucrative, business. Professional truffle hunters use specially trained dogs and pigs to sniff them out.
Truffles grow across the world, including North America and China, and there are 16 varieties. But the most popular types are the French black truffle (tuber melanosporum) and the Italian white truffle (tuber magantum).
The black truffle is considered the most exquisite and therefore the most expensive of the truffle family. Although said to be lacking flavour, it has a strong aroma which infuses any food it comes into contact with. The finest French truffles come from the Lot and Prigord regions and are typically used in pt de foie gras or for larding chicken or game.
The white truffle grows mainly in Italy's Piedmont region, specifically in the marketplace city of Alba. It's slightly peppery in taste and seldom cooked, but usually grated raw over risotto, particularly the Turin specialty, riso in bianco con tartufi bianchi.
Here are some places to try truffles:
- Truffle UK now has an online shop, which sells truffles and all things related, from truffle oils to truffle Christmas trees. Visit www.truffle-uk.co.uk for details.
- Orrery on London's Marylebone High Street is serving a variety of truffle dishes, including warm salad of autumn vegetables with eggs and white truffles and whole Bresse chicken with black truffles. Call 020 7616 8000 to book.
- Ristorante Fiore, in London's St James's, has truffles on the menu until Christmas. Dishes include potato cream all'ochio di Bue with white Alba truffles and beef tartar Albese style. Call 020 7930 7100 to book.