The latest book to hit my shelves at Pennyhill Park from US shores is
Chef Daniel Boulud: Cooking in New York City. This is a book which sets out to capture the spirit of the Boulud empire, but what also comes across is Boulud's devotion to the city where his dreams have come to fruition.
Boulud learnt his craft under the tutelage of French Michelin-starred chefs Georges Blanc, Roger Vergé and Michel Guérard before seeking his destiny and creating his own culinary landmark in New York. The pages reflect the positive view Boulud has towards New York as well as the respect he has for those colleagues who help him run his business successfully - which must be very gratifying for those involved.
As for the food, Boulud's style is displayed in 75 recipes, beautifully scripted and laid out in a concise and intelligent format. They give an insight not only into his flagship restaurant, Daniel, but also the café and bistro arms of his empire, so the reader gets a broad selection of his culinary repertoire rather than just the fine-dining end of things.
Quality raw materials, well sourced and respectfully balanced, are at the heart of his style, and the book contains a catalogue of dishes executed in a disciplined and creative way. It's fair to say, though, that originality among US chefs is left more to the likes of Thomas Keller and Charlie Trotter. Those seeking new inspiration could be disappointed.
What Boulud achieves better than most, however, is the use of his classical French heritage as a foundation to build a confident lightness in his cooking. It's in dishes like fresh crayfish with stuffed morel fricassée, which not only looks stunning but tastes wonderful. It's also nice to see boeuf en gel‚e - which cries out for a sunny alfresco setting.
Throughout the pages there are snippets of his culinary ideology. I liked, too, the fact that he included wine recommendations along with a brief note explaining their choice.
On the whole, this is a book for chefs and avid foodies - imagine trying to source piballes in the local shop. They are, in fact, live baby eels the size of worms; I would love to get hold of some, if only to create mischief.
Marc Wilkinson, head chef, Latymer restaurant, Pennyhill Park hotel, Bagshot, Surrey
Chef Daniel Boulud: Cooking in New York city
Daniel Boulud and Peter Kaminsky
Assouline US$34.95 (in UK bookshops for about £25)
ISBN: 2-84323-370-4