"The world is your oyster" is the English phrase most often associated with these slippery little suckers.
Some people are scared to try these seemingly slimy molluscs, but they are a surprisingly versatile ingredient. They can be eaten raw, smoked, boiled, baked, fried, roasted, stewed, canned, pickled, steamed or grilled, or used in a variety of drinks. However, most people reckon they're best raw, with a little squeeze of lemon and a teensy pinch of salt.
Surprisingly healthy for such a seemingly decadent food, oysters are low in food energy. A dozen raw oysters contain only 110 calories and, apart from their widely reputed aphrodisiac qualities, are rich in zinc, iron, calcium and vitamin A.
Folklore prescribes that native oysters should be eaten only when there's an "r" in the month, to avoid the spawning season. But the most famous oyster-related festival is held for nine days from 22 July, at Whitstable in Kent. On 25 July, the patron saint of oysters, St James of Compostella, is celebrated, and nowadays the festival features a huge variety of oyster-themed events and concerts.
But if you want oysters at other times of the year, all is not lost. Bibendum's oyster bar in London's Fulham Road is a classic and, for a really salty seaside experience, Rick Stein's gaff in Padstow is surely the ticket. And don't forget the Tabasco British Opening Championships on 1 September, see events page for more details.
A great place in London to find fresh oysters is London's Billingsgate fish market, open from Tuesday to Saturday, from 5.30am to 8am. Suppliers include Bard's shellfish, JJ Ovenell and Stockwell John, but it's worth phoning beforehand, on 020 7987 1118, to check if the shellfish suppliers are trading.
Another option, if you can't face such an early start or unmistakable market whiff, is the more refined fishmonger counters at FishWorks, which now has outlets in Bath, Bristol and London. They offer the French variety when the natives are out of stock, and Mitch Tonks, FishWorks' founder, suggests oysters Rockefeller. Take sweet shallots, celery, chervil, parsley and spinach butter; blend with more butter, breadcrumbs, Pernod and Worcestershire sauce until smooth, season with lots of black pepper and a tiny amount of salt, then top two dozen oysters with the mixture; bake or grill for three to four minutes until the top is crispy and golden.
By Alix Young