The Daily Telegraph, 20 May
Christopher Middleton enjoys the high level of technical cooking at Drake's in Ripley, Surrey
Yes, a gastro-performance like this is a refined experience, altogether more Swan Lake than Sound of Music. And the portion sizes were definitely aimed at those with bird-like appetites: three scallops (starters), two tiny John Dory slithers (main course) and six small rectangles of duck breast, each no bigger than half a tea bag (also main course). No wonder they brought the bread round again during the main course, and no wonder they didn't price the dishes individually, lest there be an outbreak of "£27.50 for this?"-type calculations. (Dinner £36 per person for two courses, £42 for three courses, wine from £14 per bottle)
The Guardian, 20 May
Matthew Norman heads to Brighton for an overelaborate but pleasant meal at Pinxto People
It's presided over by a young and friendly staff - though, personally, I can live without being addressed as "guys" by South Africans half my age, but then I'm a vile, crotchety old goat... Delicate, delicious dumplings filled with rabbit came with nasty "mustard ice cream", while king prawns tempura-style were deep-fried to perfection but conjoined on skewers with overly al dente asparagus... Puddings, though, were spectacular, especially chocolate brownies studded with pistachio and served with glazed kumquats and fresh mint sorbet. For all the over-elaboration and skimping on the butcher's bill, we enjoyed the meal. (Rating: 7/10. Set lunch £15 for three courses; à la carte, with wine, £35-£45 a head)
The Independent, 20 May
John Walsh goes in search of great Italian food at Amici Bar & Restaurant in Wandsworth, south London, but comes away uninspired
A plate of antipasti went down well, but I couldn't help thinking the salami, bruschetta bits and tuna-with-flageolet beans could have been thrown together for a family picnic by one of the children. In the very open-plan kitchen six chefs bustled about under Valentina's beady eye. How many did it take to knock up some pasta and antipasta? My friends had mixed feelings about the mains. Tim liked his swordfish grilled with "Sicilian-style diced peppers, aubergine, celery and zucchini", but was puzzled by the unheralded presence of cheese and tomato. Sarah had the "Italian style" pollo arrosto with rosemary roast potatoes and fresh vegetables, and pronounced it "scarily ordinary - if you cooked this for me at your house, I'd say, 'Darling, how delicious' but nothing more". (Ratings out of five: food, two; ambience, three; service, one. £38 a head including wine)
The Sunday Times, 21 May
AA Gill braves the chillis at London's latest restaurant hot spot, the Sichuan-inspired Bar Shu in Frith Street
The moment I walked into Bar Shu, I realised it ticked every box. For a start, it plainly hadn't had £1m spent on its interior. Then there's the food, which is an authentic cuisine rooted in geography and history, not a Jabberwocky fusion or personal interpretation. We got down to business, starting with slivered pig's tripe in chilli-oil sauce, and duck rolls with salted duck egg yolk. The first mouthful thudded me back in my chair and I emitted a small strangulated "Wow!" It was almost the last coherent thing I said. After that a painful numbness spread through my mouth and each new dish was experienced as a mugger's stab behind the eyes. My cheeks began to melt and my lips quivered with an involuntary palsy. I managed to ask the waiter to bring the mixed offal stewed in medieval dragon spit. "Very hot," said the waiter. "You sure?" Bring it on. (Rating: four stars out of five)
The Independent on Sunday, 21 May
Terry Durack goes on a regal hunt in Jersey at the island's Bohemia restaurant in Caterer Adopted Business the Club Hotel and Spa
What becomes obvious is that [Shaun] Rankin has dazzling skill. Now what would a chef of Rankin's unarguable talent and imagination do with the Jersey Royal? Drum roll, please. The lid is lifted from a small bowl to reveal that he has peeled them, boiled them, and served them with little more than Jersey butter and chives, so that nothing can interfere with their sweet, earthy, vaguely chestnut flavour. That, more than anything, tells me how good he is. (Rating: 18 out of 20. Three-course fixed-price dinner £45, excluding wine and service)