I first became aware of the Roux brothers, Albert and Michel, in the 1980s when I was working up at Miller Howe in Cumbria as a young chef. I couldn't have been more than about 22, and John Tovey, my boss, used to go out quite regularly and kept going on about how brilliant they were.
He was so enthusiastic, he took the staff down to Le Gavroche for dinner. I was just blown away by the place and the staff. It inspired me to buy the Rouxs' book, New Classic Cuisine - I think it was about 1984, but it's so long ago now, I'm not sure - and I still use it regularly to this day.
I remember first looking at it and playing around doing sweet souffl‚s using their method; the Rouxs are simply on their own when it comes to desserts. Page 115, for souffl‚ Suissesse, is particularly dog-eared, and I still use the chicken and Roquefort mousse today. I've played around with the basic mousse recipe - I don't use as much egg white as in the book - but the principles are just the same. Being on the Norfolk coast, we use a lot of fish, and it works really well with halibut, for instance.
Another thing that I discovered when I first read the book was how to make Italian meringue by pouring hot liquid into the egg white. The method was totally new to me. Actually, the book really came into its own when we (my wife, Tracy, and I) bought Morston Hall in 1992. I never trained at college, so it filled a gap for me. It's where I first came across lemon tart.
I cherry-picked my way through the book originally, I remember, starting with the puds, because I've always been interested in pastry, and it was at the back. The first section I always look at in a book is the puds, and I always work from the back to the front when I read something, even newspapers.
The book sets out with a chapter talking about classic French houses and the whole education of what makes a great chef. It moves on to explain how to plan a menu; then there are basic chapters on stock, sauces and soups; after that there are chapters on first courses, shellfish, fish, game and poultry, meat, vegetables and, of course, desserts. After desserts, my book's starters section is probably the most well-thumbed.
The book is just a classic that has stood the test of time. I would say I flick through it at least once a week and I always recommend it to my brigade. The boys are into the newer chefs, of course, but New Classic Cuisine's known in our kitchen as the one to turn to if in doubt. I'd hate to be without it.
Galton Blackiston, chef-proprietor, Morston Hall, near Blakeney, Norfolk
New Classic Cuisine
Albert and Michel Roux
Time Warner Books
£14.99
ISBN 0-316-64250-9