The old-school cooks among you will remember the first edition of this great little book. My own is particularly well thumbed and stashed among my oldies. It's a timeless piece of reference that every professional and amateur will find invaluable.
The book starts by briefly discussing cuts of vegetables, temperatures, cooking with wine and the importance of bread. The order of chapters reflects the traditional concept of a menu, either at home or in a restaurant. For example, salads are positioned at the beginning, followed by entrées, eggs, vegetables, fish, poultry and meat, cheese and then desserts.
The format is classic/traditional regional cooking taken from all corners of France, but leaning heavily towards the south, Provence in particular. This is no bad thing, as nowadays people tend to refer to southern France as their ideal place to eat. I think this reflects people's desire to eat lighter and healthier food and produce - and Proven‡ale and Italian food is the epitome of simplicity. Browsing through the book, you will, however, also find old classics that seem to have been forgotten or even lost by modernity.
Recipes range from the very simple to the more technical, such as poireaux à la vinaigrette, omelettes aux fines herbes, gratin of turnips, daube of beef and sweet pithiviers (galettes des rois). There is also a recipe for deep-fried lamb testicles (beignets). I have to say that with tartare sauce they are extremely scrummy. To my mind, there are only a few restaurants in this country that practice this style successfully.
If you are looking for a glossy, fancy-pants cookery book with arty photography then this is not for you. But if you cherish real, hearty, French, soul-warming food, then snap this new edition up immediately. You won't be disappointed.
This is a serious food-lovers' book, which stands the test of time well. Many of these recipes would not be out of place on a restaurant table today.
Anthony Demetre is chef-director at Putney Bridge, London
Simple French Food
Richard Olney
Grub Street
£14.99
ISBN 1904010 28 8