So, the Brits are still the biggest export market for Champagne. Not only that, but shipment figures are up considerably, with an increase of 26% on 2001 (although the USA beat us to it on that score - theirs was up by 33%). Drowning post-11 September blues, perhaps? Or is it just that we are all trading up?
Champagne makes up just 10% of the world's sparkling wine production. OK, so there are some admirable New World contenders - a few, even, that can now beat the big French names at their own game - but most of the time Champagne is in a league of its own. After all, the producers have had centuries of practice. And what about those chalky soils? You don't see those in Napa.
In an attempt to find out why sales are booming, I turned to Bruno Paillard, president of the Commission Communication et Appellation Champagne, when he was in London two weeks ago for the Champagne Information Bureau (CIB) annual tasting. Champagne lovers will already be aware that Paillard is also a Champagne producer - one of the best, in fact (available through Bibendum Wine, 020 7449 4044) - so he speaks for himself as well as for his contemporaries.
"I have no logical explanation for the increase in sales," he says, "other than to say that consumers really love Champagne. It's a bit obvious, I know, but I don't think it's a waste of time repeating it. I suppose there are many possible reasons why - for example, we're seeing a younger crowd drinking Champagne today."
You mean P Diddy, right? The rap star photographed in Heat magazine swigging from bottles of Cristal? "It's not just about image," snaps Paillard. "I think young people genuinely love the taste of Champagne. You'll find no other example of a product that can sustain itself just on image for this length of time.
"I also think that the way restaurants serve Champagne has had a huge impact, particularly the wine-by-the-glass programme. Ten years ago, only a very small number of restaurants would offer you a glass of Champagne as an aperitif; now, many restaurants do."
Another marketing wheeze, which was conjured up by the CIB a few years back to boost sales, promoted the idea of drinking Champagne throughout a meal (for those who could afford it, anyway).
So has the way we drink Champagne changed at all? It was only two decades ago that Champagne was primarily drunk as a toast at the end of meal, with dessert.
"People are drinking less, but better, and we're drinking fewer spirits and more wine," says Paillard. "And people now tend to avoid mixing wines throughout a meal as we did in the old days. By sticking to the same wine they find it less tiring."
But Paillard gets most animated (read angry) when discussing competition from the New World. "I suppose imitation is the sincerest form of flattery," he grumbles, "but those producers who still insist on using the word Champagne on the label, they are hoodwinking the consumer."
He claims the Americans are the worst culprits, singling out one wine dynasty in particular (a little tip: don't mention Gallo in his company). "By using the word Champagne on the label they are cashing in on centuries of the hard work of others."
So how will Champagne keep up with demand? Will prices have to go up? "Well, we still have another 5% of the region to be planted, after phylloxera, then that's it, no more room for expansion. But no, I don't see prices going up," he says. Right, we'll hold you to that.
House fizz
Five great lesser-known non-vintage Champagnes for your list:
Drappier Brut Carte d'Or
£12.25, Anthony Byrne Fine Wines, 01487 814555
Voted Grower of the Year 2002 by Cuisine et Vins de France, Drappier has a fresh, yeasty nose with caramelised apples and red fruits, and bags of balancing acidity.
Jean Moutardier Carte d'Or
£11.95, Great Western Wine Co, 01225 322800
One of the best Pinot Meunier-based Champagne producers, this has 90% Pinot Meunier and 10% Chardonnay with ripe, meaty fruit and a sprinkling of spice.
Alain Thiénot Brut
£16.95, Champagnes & Châteaux, 020 7498 4488
OK, so you've probably heard of Thiénot, but the brut is too good to pass up: gorgeous peachy brioche nose with a good zip of citrus to round things off.
Pannier Brut Selection
£14.20, Heyman Barwell Jones, 020 7922 1614
One of the region's best-kept secrets, it is aged for a minimum of three years in 800-year-old cellars.
A Margaine Premier Cru Brut
£11, The Flying Corkscrew, 01442 412312
A good dollop of honey on a rising bread-dough nose.