Evening Standard, London, 19 July
Fay Maschler likes Bjorn van der Horst's food, but not the room, at La Noisette in London's Knightsbridge
A first canapé of slender breadsticks with a little pot of herb-dotted labneh (yogurt cheese) for dipping was fine, if a little underwhelming. The motor revved up with a second canapé of warm globe artichoke velouté in a glass, accompanied by a slender cornet containing tomato granita. That was delicious. I had chosen a summer favourite of wild trout with English peas, beurre rouge and mustard emulsion. The skin on the trout was crisp and the flesh cooked to just the right point, but the peas were prepared à la Française with lardons, spring onions and lettuce. Slow-cooked Atlantic cod with Jabugo (cured ham) and squid in a salad was a brilliant conceit, the fish almost ripened to lusciousness in its preparation. Unfortunately, no amount of time is likely to improve the extraordinarily dismal, uninspiring room. (Rating, 3/5; meal for two, £90, excluding drinks and service.)
Daily Telegraph, 22 July
Jan Moir overcomes doubts about the site to enjoy Bjorn van der Horst's cooking at La Noisette in Knightsbridge, London
La Noisette is tricked out in appropriate shades of nut brown, a colour scheme that perhaps works better when the lunchtime sunshine floods through the windows rather than in a more sombre evening light. There is much to tempt on the menu, including duck with roast peaches and a toasted hazelnut salad; or seared foie gras with coffee and amaretto foam. The chicken is very, very tempting. Spit-roasted and scented with thyme, it is served with Persian rice and a trio of little dishes containing roast peppers, baba ganoush and tabbouleh. There is an icily elegant six-course Summer Favourites menu, which starts with a chill, pale pool of almond gazpacho poured over prawns dusted with smoked paprika and resting on little supports of tomato sorbet. (Dinner for two, £90 excluding drinks; A Taste of Summer menu, £55 each)
The Times, 22 July
Giles Coren finds a Chinese cookie hidden inside the concrete of Dragon Castle in Elephant and Castle, south London
They no doubt signed for this site - a breeze-block lubyanka - from a small office in Kowloon, believing it to be prime Mayfair real estate. But the food, when it comes, is fantastic. The spare ribs were short, meaty double ribs of perfect pork in a top-class goo, as succulent and unchewy as you can imagine. A plate of cold sliced pork hock involved dozens of wafer-thin slices with dashes of something (chilli and soy?). Salt and pepper aubergine with chilli and garlic was sublime - no grease, no bitterness, an almost fruit-like tempura with a gleeful kick. (Rating, 7.33/10; dinner for two, £107.50.)
Sunday Times, 23 July
AA Gill takes in the Babylonian grandeur of Gilgamesh, at Stables Market, Camden, London NW1
This is a hysterical temple to grand kitsch. Real, ironic, poker-faced überkitsch. And, like all really good bad taste, the question it screams is: "Guess how much I cost? And who had the glass eye and incontinent wallet to pay for it?" Then there's the food. A jabberwocky collection of Nobu Asian stuff: Japanese, Korean, Californian sushi; Chinese Singapore dumplings; Thai, Laotian, Vietnamese style. It's overseen by Ian Pengelley, who worked at E&O, then the shortlived Pengelley's. Despite the distraction of so many Wag wannabes, the food is actually very good: well made, with clear flavours, imaginative combinations and attractive presentation. (Rating, 3/5.)
The Observer magazine, 23 July
Jay Rayner enjoys a great, simple meal at a sensible price at the Old Spot in Wells, Somerset
It was a short menu, but challenging. I wanted to eat it all, but in the end chose for my starter the pressed ham terrine with lentil vinaigrette over the gazpacho or brandade of salt cod. It was a solid chunk of sweet pigginess, cut through by a tidy pile of nutty lentils, mixed in with the spiky vinaigrette. For mains, braised shoulder of lamb had been taken off the bone, rolled and caramelised to give crisp contrast to the softness of the meat. Alongside was an in-yer-face ratatouille with chunky pieces of aubergine and the essence of a bucketful of tomatoes. (Meal for two with wine and service, £60-£80.)