Daniel Smith couldn't have wished for a better start to 2004. The 28-year-old head chef of Norfolk's Wildebeest Arms learnt two weeks ago that he'd won the 60-seat pub a Bib Gourmand in this year's Michelin Red Guide. Being of good East Anglian stock, though, all he'll allow himself to say is that he was "well chuffed" with the news.
It shouldn't be too much of a surprise, however, that his cooking has tickled the inspectors' taste-buds. His chef pedigree can be traced back to London's renowned Le Gavroche, via four years at Norfolk's own jewel in the crown, Morston Hall - he was cooking as chef-proprietor Galton Blackiston's right-hand man when the restaurant with rooms got its Michelin star in 1999. And since arriving at the Wildebeest Arms four years ago, he's quietly got on with building up a reputation for putting out tasty, accomplished modern food with a Mediterranean edge.
So, you might find a tender, pink-thyme-roasted pigeon breast served with a salad of wild mushrooms and crispy pancetta and peanut vinaigrette on offer on Smith's à la carte menu: or something satisfyingly filling like roast peppered monkfish with brown shrimp risotto, tomato, caper and chive beurre blanc (£16.95) nestling among the mains on his daily specials.
Smith's cooking mantra is to keep things fresh, seasonal and simple. "I like to taste ingredients - I don't like food that's messed about with too much," he says.
Being located where he is, there's obviously a good supply of newly landed fish (he uses two suppliers, one in East Lynn, the other based in Norwich); and during the winter it's not unknown for the pub's owner, Henry Watts, to return from a shoot with a few pheasant, partridge or even venison for the pot.
There's been a plentiful supply of artichokes and figs over the autumn and winter months, too, resulting in dishes like roast butternut squash and artichoke salad with chive oil and aged balsamic (£5.95). Figs have been employed in dressings, sauces and, more obviously, in desserts - Smith does a nice line in comfort zone puds (all £5.25) without stick-to-the-chair aftereffects. Chocolate is there, of course, and fig comes as a compote with chilled double cream and vanilla rice pudding.
All ice-creams, pasta and bread (focaccia, ciabatta, granary and white loaves and rolls) are made on site (bread is baked twice a day). And his four-strong brigade is also kept on its toes by putting out not only an … la carte menu and specials, but also two very competitive menu du jour listings - one at lunch the other at dinner - usually with a three- or-four dish choice at each level. Lunch is £11.95 for two courses, £14.95 for three; dinner is £15 for two, £18 for three.
"It's a challenge," Smith concedes, "to be competitive, earn money and make sure the quality doesn't suffer. I just use proper ingredients, keep as local as possible and steer away from anything too 'fusiony'." His efforts are clearly appreciated by businessmen from nearby Norwich, who make up the mainstay of lunch trade (40 covers is the average) and by the wide age range of regulars who bump up evening covers to about 60 at weekends.
"I like to exceed people's expectations - that's the nicest thing to be able to do. To please customers by just giving them a little bit more than they think they're going to get."
The Wildebeest Arms, 82-86 Norwich Road, Stoke Holy Cross, Norfolk NR14 8QJ. Tel: 01508 492497
what's on the menu
- Pan-fried scallops with olive oil pur‚e potato, fig and balsamic syrup, £8.50
- Light velout‚ of leek and Morston mussels (from menu du jour)
- Confit duck leg, pur‚e potato, crispy Alsace lardon, rich thyme jus, £6.50
- Pot-roast chicken breast, rustic bubble and squeak, creamy leeks, crispy pancetta and light basil cream, £12.50
- Cumin and yogurt-marinated chump of lamb, olive mashed potato, roast butternut squash, courgette tagliatelle, coriander jus, £15.75
- Chargrilled rib-eye steak, house chips, aioli, dressed leaves, Montgomery Cheddar and parsley crust, £14.75
- Assiette of chocolate desserts (dark chocolate fondant, chocolate and amaretto pot, white chocolate and orange ice-cream), £5.25
- Raspberry and redcurrant parfait, crème fraîche, £5.25
- Home-made tiramisù with vanilla syrup, £5.25