Bloomberg, 29 February
Richard Vines visits Barrafina
The line starts at the far end of the room and stretches along the counter, where the wait may last anything from 45 to 75 minutes. Once the line reaches the door, new arrivals are politely turned away. Barrafina is popular. I dislike standing in line for anything. One of the most seductive slogans I heard for a credit card promised that it "takes the waiting out of wanting". Yet as I surveyed the would- be diners at this West End tapas bar, sipping wine and chatting with friends while anticipating the culinary treats on offer, I could almost see myself there. Almost.
Barrafina - Bloomberg review in full >>
Evening Standard, 27 February
David Sexton at Ramsay’s Warrington
The Warrington used to have a Thai restaurant, Ben's, upstairs (a popular combination in boozers such as The Churchill Arms in Kensington Church Street). But back in 2006 Gordon Ramsay bought the Warrington for a reputed £5.2m and the building has now been lavishly restored. Three weeks ago it opened as the third Ramsay gastropub in London, with a fourth, the York and Albany in Camden, on the way.
The Warrington - Evening Standard review in full >>
Metro, 27 February
Marina O'Loughlin at Urban Turban
I am a huge fan of Vineet Bhatia. From his early days at the Star Of India, where his light was hidden under the enormous, camp bushel that is owner Reza Mahammad, through Zaika and the short-lived Zaika Bazaar to the dizzying pleasures of his Michelin-starred, Chelsea swankerama Rasoi, I've never not loved his fresh and vibrant cooking. And I enjoy much of what I eat at his new diffusion line, Urban Turban (his wife Rashima, who undertakes the look of his restaurants, is apparently responsible for the wince-inducing moniker). But, despite reasonable food and an accessible price – just like your local Taj Mahal if you avoid the mango and rose coladas and ginger daiquiris – I have no intention of ever darkening its doors again.
Metro review in full >>
Time Out, 26 February
Guy Dimond at the Waterhouse
Waterhouse isn’t in the most promising of locations; the view across Regent’s Canal is of graffiti and hooded youths ambling along the towpath. But they’ve made the most of a modern building, turning it into a chic bit of Scandinavian-looking modernism. It’s the menu that really stands out though. Water is filtered tap; wines are organic or biodynamic; and the food is, as far as possible, low on carbon usage, and highly seasonal. Nothing is air freighted (the salamis are brought by road), and the fish is all bought from sustainable stocks.
Waterhouse - Time Out review in full >>
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