Mary Contini owns the famous Valvona & Crolla deli and café at 19 Elm Row in Edinburgh. The shop, selling imported Italian provisions, was founded by her grandparents and now spans two family generations -
Dear Francesca is written as an extended letter to her daughter. Essentially, the book is a family history peppered with recipes. It emphasises regional recipes, family preferences and the importance of eating well.
It is obviously aimed at home cooks rather than professionals, but does contain the odd nugget for chefs. There's an interesting chapter on the importance of shopping and there are good explanations of antipasti, cheeses, traditional pasta recipes and vegetables, which place the emphasis on quality of produce and simplicity of preparation.
The recipes are a little basic, but for anybody who wants to know how authentic Italian food is supposed to be, the book is a good read. As the subtitle claims, it is certainly a book written with love. Don't treat it as a reference book, as it's really for people who are interested in food, family and heritage. Buy it as a gift for someone and you might get a "proper" carbonara and some decent antipasti at a subsequent dinner party.
Peter Robinson, chef-proprietor, Kings Arms, Stow-on-the-Wold, Gloucestershire
Dear Francesca - Mary Contini, Ebury Press £20
ISBN 0091881765