Every year, just before Christmas, rumours start circling about the potential winners and losers of the forthcoming Michelin guide.
Caterer adds to the speculation by running it’s annual predictions articles in the magazine and online, and this, in turn, is joined by various food columnists who throw in their two penneth.
About a week before the guide publishes, the speculation becomes more serious and the authenticity of such information is analysed, scrutinised and commented upon. This year, one source had either received some leaked information or was, rather amazingly, right on the money - there would be no two- or three-star restaurants awarded in Britain and Ireland in 2008.
The news was met was disappointment in the industry, as one Caterer reader told me this week: “I’m sure the cooking in Tokyo is wonderful but how can Michelin justify giving it eight three-star ratings compared to London’s one! It’s beyond belief, as Michael Winner would say.”
Speaking to the guide’s editor Derek Bulmer last week as part of our news coverage, it’s clear there is no hidden agenda at Michelin Towers. Stars are awarded on merit. Apart from the current holders of three stars in Britain - Gordon Ramsay, the Fat Duck and the Waterside Inn - no-one else, or no restaurant rather, deserves them. Currently.
That’s not to say that others have reached their potential. Many, according to Bulmer, are on Michelin’s radar and Britain and Ireland could have a lot more to shout about next year...
The fact that Tokyo and New York launched with a splash needs to be put into context. Michelin has been awarding stars in Britain and Ireland for 35 years (having previously published guides to Britain and Ireland, separately, in the early 1900s). If it published for the first time in 2008, the news of 122 starred restaurants, of which three are three-star and 12 are two-star, would be better met.
It’s also worth noting that in addition to the 15 new one-star restaurants recognised this year, 33 Bibs Gourmands were also given - the largest single clutch of Bibs Gourmands to be bestowed in Britain and Ireland - taking the total number of such-rated restaurants to an all-time high of 133. That Britain and Ireland has more competitively priced, quality food operations is, perhaps, the best news of all.
You can read more on Michelin-starred restaurants here.
Amanda Afiya
Web editor
Caterersearch.com
Comments (1)
They make excellent tyres and their stars, awarded to top restaurants, are indeed a cause for celebration. But aren't we getting a bit carried away with Michelin? Surely the ultimate accolade is a dining room full of happy customers every day. I am worried that too many chefs see a star as an objective in itself rather than a welcome consequence of looking after the customer. Gongs are the icing on the cake - they are not the cake.
Posted by Peter Hancock | February 4, 2008 3:33 PM
Posted on February 4, 2008 15:33