He's joined by mushroom-man forager and supplier of wild food to top end restaurants, Miles Irving. "Noma would not be noma without people like Miles," says Redzepi. Which explains that.
For those unfamiliar with Scandinavian hedgerows; what grows in the wild out in Denmark this time of year is very much the same as in Britain. The noma menu is a mix of costly and everyday ingredients, including foraged native foods and home-prepared vinegars, beers, spirits and wines. I made a home-made beer once. It grew a head that resembled sewage effluent and tasted like I'd stewed a wet dog in pond water. I'm guessing noma does it better.
Irving is running through the wild products Redzepi uses. Dandelion in there. And a few others up on his table; some moss, some sea lettuce - a nice summery ingredient - wood sorrel, wild garlic flowers, a glass of water (probably not foraged), wild celery, pennywort, wild rocket, sweet woodruff.
"There's a huge variation of pureness out there in the wild. And if you represent that in cuisine it should have a lightness to it," says Redzepi.
Redzepi's first dish is up; roast king crab in flavoured ashes, whipped together with consummate ease.
The next dish is coming out the pan, a dish from one of his first menus. It seems to be served on a rock - little seasonal baby vegetables held in place on the stone with a puree. "We want the dish to reflect the ground." And he's scattered it with what looks like edible soil - made from grains, beer, butter and a few other things to make it resemble soil.
"For some they may this dish its just vegetables and soil but for me it is nature." Remember Marco's little maxim: Mother Nature is the best artist? Well, here it is in action. We've gone full circle already.
I'm still dubious as to whether you eat the stone or not.
Dish three: turbot, sea kale, celery, wild watercress stems with a sauce made from the leaves, cowslip flowers and leaves, jack-by-the-hedge, wild garlic leaves - this is going to be like eating a hedgerow - and wild garlic flowers. Wow. It's not as messy as it sounds - that description conjures up a pile of leaves in a playground - it's dainty, structured and painted with Mother Nature's fair hand (plus a pan to fry the fish in).
Clean, fresh, food that doesn't linger. Everything flavour is discernible and every ingredient does itself justice.
Redzepi's inspiration? "Looking what's in season and people like Miles and tasting his produce. That's it really."
The last dish: a puree of truffles - truffles from Sweden, pickled in the winter season and pureed - some salsify, a thick, fat milk skin - yes, milk skin - sautéed bread, a rapeseed and milk sauce and some of Miles's wild herbs. My my I am hungry.
Catch up with the latest from the conference at the Caterer Blog.
