John Campbell took me on a tour of his impressive kitchen within the Vineyard at Stockcross, the other day. John's cooking, which won him a well-deserved second Michelin star earlier this year, is based squarely upon the sous vide method. It's a method he promotes with an evangelist's zeal.
I love John's boundless energy and infectious passion for food. As we talked, he grabbed a marker pen off a passing chef and began to sketch out his blueprint for preparing perfectly-cooked cuts of meat on a nearby fridge door, like a white-coated Rolf Harris. I only hope the ink wasn't permanent ...
Of course, sous vide is nothing new, but it's the way John has built the hotel's entire food offering around it that is really interesting. John talks about 'de-risking' the business of serving food, and certainly there's a discernable calmness and order to his kitchen. Already, many eminent chefs are sending scouts down to the Vinyard to witness his system, first-hand.
Incidentally, my lunch at the Vineyard was phenomenal, and threw up some interesting taste combinations, such as lemon curd and scallops.
Talking of Michelin stars, I have just started what looks set to be a really interesting book about the life and death of Bernard Loiseau, the French chef who took his own life in 2003 after the stress of maintaining three Michelin-star status grew too hard to bear. It's called the Perfectionist, and I'll tell you more about it as I progress. So far, I've learned that the phenomenon of the French provincial super-chef emerged when cars became available to rich city-dwellers, and mass rapid travel became possible. It's no coincidence that the great provincial houses in France tend to be on the country's main arterial roads.
What food-related books are you reading at the moment? Anything you'd recommend? let us know.