February 2009 Archives

Michelin under fire from Jay Rayner

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Piazza by AntonyThe Observer's Jay Rayner has hit out at Michelin for seemingly ignoring Leeds chef Anthony Flinn again this year.

 

In his latest restaurant review of the newly-opened Piazza by Antony, which he dubs "a bleedin' empire, a gastronomic army of occupation", Rayner criticises Michelin's "continued refusal to recognise what he's doing," adding that it "blunts their reputation, not his." Ouch.

 

Rayner, who went to University in Leeds in the 80s (when pizza was the closest thing to the city's nouvelle cuisine) has long been an advocate of Flinn, whose culinary work in Leeds he says is "raising the quality of food in the city".

 

Last year, the food critic gave the chef's brasserie in the high-end shop Flannels a less than glowing review, claiming that Flinn was cutting corners in order to keep prices down.

 

In a subsequent interview with Caterer, when asked about the review Flinn said that "it annoyed me... but I don't believe for a second it was about the money - I can make fantastic dishes for pennies" .

 

Rayner's verdict on the Piazza, however, praises the chef's ambitious new venture, which incorporates a bakerery, patisserie, cheese shop, brasserie and more, claiming that his foodie reincarnation of the Corn Exchange is "verging on a social service." High praise indeed.

 

Do you think there have been any obvious omissions from this year's guide? If so, let me know...  

 

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While tomorrow night sees Heston Blumenthal, John Campbell, Marcus Wareing, Angela Hartnett and Phil Howard strut their stuff at South Downs College in aid of The Ark, an arm of Hospitality Action (HA) which focuses on educating people in the industry about the dangers of alcohol dependency and drug misuse, May brings a different kind of fundraiser for the HA in the form of a once-in-a-lifetime Great British Menu dinner involving all the finalists from the 2008 BBC2 hit series.

How? Well Jason Atherton, head honcho at Gordon Ramsay's Maze restaurant in London, has pulled together all his Great British Menu mates to create a six-course meal for 300 people to be held at the London Marriott Hotel Grosvenor Square on 18 May.

Maze PragueFollowing Caterersearch's story that Gordon Ramsay Holdings is stepping back from day--to-day involvement in its Maze Prague venture, a leading restaurant critic has got in touch to express doubt about how much Maze's Jason Atherton was actually involved in the first place.

"Having eaten at Maze Prague, anonymously as ever (every other review I read was a PR jolly), I don't understand how they got away wilth calling it Maze in the first place," says our mole.

"There was not a glimmer of Jason Atherton's style of cooking about the place - but the place was stacked with Gordon Ramsay books for sale, even more irrelevant. It's a good restaurant, but Maze it's not."

Interesting stuff. Anyone else got any thoughts about restaurant outposts - are they worth their while?

Let me know.

Gordon Ramsay in the news - again

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Gordon RamsayAnother weekend, another host of Gordon Ramsay exposes. One wonders if sacking publicist Gary Farrow was the wisest move in the world.

Right, if you're comfortable, we'll kick off. The People reveals that Gordon Ramsay Holdings is being chased for thousands of pounds in unpaid bills.

The newspaper claims that GRH owes £50,000 to meat suppliers; £25,000 to seafood producers; £30,000 to a wine company and £3,000 to poultry suppliers.

Meanwhile, today's London Evening Standard claims that a "bitter feud re-ignited today" between Gordon Ramsay and his former protégé Marcus Wareing over a £500,000 wine collection.

It claims that Ramsay has blocked Wareing's request to buy the contents of the cellar of the former Petrus restaurant, now called Marcus Wareing at The Berkeley since the pair split.

Finally, in a rather tired piece in the Daily Express, Marco Pierre White once again slams Ramsay (he must be bored about talking about their feud by now?)

For the record, the Express quotes Marco thus: "When I did Hell's Kitchen it was because I did not like the way certain people were portraying my industry.

"I joined the show and didn't shout and I didn't swear. I didn't do any of that. I went on there and I did my job to the best of my abilities. I think they were shocked. I honestly believe if Gordon was made of chocolate he would eat himself."

Michelin results leak out again

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MichelinMan2.jpgAfter the results to this year's Michelin guide for Great Britain and Ireland leaked onto the internet five days ahead of schedule last month, you would have thought that now, more than ever, Michelin would be guarding its accolades like a bunch of rottweilers.

But, in a development likely to leave the restaurant bible's editors even more red-faced than after last month's blunder, France's results have been leaked out too, according to the France Soir newspaper.

What makes this especially embarrassing for Michelin is the fact that this year's French guide celebrates its 100th anniversary and a grand launch was scheduled to take place in Paris next month (to which Guide Girl was invited, of course).

Michelin remains tight-lipped and says it'll release the results on 2 March as scheduled. But sacre bleu, who is Michelin's Deep Throat?

Looking on the bright side the results are positive for Great Britain, with Gordon Ramsay's Trianon restaurant in Versailles debuting with two-Michelin stars less than a year after it opened.

Ramsay, who now holds a total of 12 Michelin stars, is among eight chefs who will be getting the coveted two-star rating in this year's guide for France, with a third star set to be awarded to Eric Frechon's luxury Hotel Bristol in Paris.

Other restaurants slated to receive two Michelin stars include Michel Roth at the Ritz hotel in Paris as well as L'Atelier Jean-Luc Rabanel in Arles, L'Hostellerie Le Castellas in Pont-du-Gard and Le Faventia in Tourettes.

From southwest France, the Michelin guide is to award two stars to Le Saint-James in Bordeaux, as well as to Guy Lassausaie in Chasselay in central-eastern France and to Casa del Mar in Porto-Vecchio, Corsica.

A long list of restaurants set to celebrate their first Michelin star includes the Jules Verne restaurant atop the Eiffel Tower, opened by Alain Ducasse last year.

ark_foundationlogo1.gifAs charity dinners go, they don't get much better than this. Later this month, the lucky people of Waterlooville in Hampshire are going to have the culinary talents of Heston Blumenthal, John Campbell, Angela Harnett, Philip Howard and Marcus Wareing descending on their local college, South Downs.

The second event of its type (last year the college hosted Blumenthal, David Nicholls, John Williams and Jake Watkins), this dinner offers its guests "a unique and unrepeatable opportunity to enjoy the gastronomic experience of a lifetime, created by five of the world's finest chefs, who will be coaching and inspiring a team of talented students".

Marco Pierre WhiteThe credit crunch continues to claim its victims and no one is safe, not even our favourite TV chefs.

And so Antony Worrall Thompson, Jean Christophe Novelli and Paul Rankin have all had problems holding on to their respective restaurants and pubs as a result of the credit crunch.

Yes, it's been a bad week for the Saturday Kitchen crowd, but here's something to make them feel better.

Fellow sleb chef Marco Pierre White has offered a word of advice saying that celebrity restaurateurs shouldn't resort to offering special deals to lure in customers.

"It's a weakness and you are attracting the wrong type of client," MPW warns. "You have to stick with your loyal client base. They are the ones who will keep your business going."

Could it be that MPW is reaching out to former protégé Gordon Ramsay, who recently introduced a £30 lunch menu at his Michelin-starred restaurant at Claridges?  

Michelin editor turns into a love guru

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Valentines DayDerek Bulmer, the editor of the UK Michelin guide, is a man who clearly knows a thing or two about restaurants. But did you know that he also quite fancies himself as a love guru?

Yes, dear love sick punters unsure how to spoil your beau this Valentine's Day, look no further, Derek is here to the rescue.

First of all Dr Romance recommends that instead of going for dinner, couples go out for lunch this year. After all, Valentine's Day is on a Saturday so why not make the most of the whole day?

"Valentine's Day is either the most romantic day of the year for couples, or an expensive disappointment in the romance calendar," Derek advises. "Lunchtime is a good option, not only will it be cheaper but you will have the rest of the day to spend with your valentine."

He adds that your Valentine celebrations needn't necessarily take place on 14 February: "Surprise your lover by taking him or her out a night or two before. You are almost guaranteed a quieter, stress free and intimate dining experience."

New lovers should focus their attention on organisation. "If it's your first Valentine's Day together be organised and book well in advance to ensure you get a table at your chosen restaurant," Derek says.

"Also make sure this Valentine's Day is one your lover will remember for the right reasons by booking a venue that is renowned not only for great food but excellent service too, as they are less likely to crack under pressure. This is where the Michelin Guide can help you."

What's most important on Valentine's Day according to Derek love doctor is that you don't spoil the after-dinner romance by tucking into the wrong foods. "Think about what you are going to eat," he enthuses. "Avoid very rich food and too much garlic. As well as oysters; avocados, almonds and honey all have qualities to help get you in the mood for love."

If you're interested in what Derek had to say about this year's Michelin results, watch our exclusive video with him here.

Juniper and the Abbey close

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Michael RiemenschneiderIt's been a bad year so far for Swiss chef Michael Riemenschneider, who took over the Michelin-starred restaurants The Abbey in Cornwall and Juniper in Greater Manchester last year.

Word has just reached Caterer towers that he has been forced to shut both restaurants.

The move comes just over two weeks after both restaurants lost their respective Michelin stars.

The official line is:

"Michael Riemenschneider and his business partner Bill Treloar are currently dealing with issues relating to the companies behind The Abbey and Juniper restaurants. While a resolution is being sought both restaurants will remain closed. As discussions are ongoing it is not possible to release further information at this time nor respond to speculation regarding the future of the restaurants."

After Juniper lost its star in this year's Michelin guide, Manchester was left with absolutely no starred restaurants. So it's a bad week for foodies in the city, especially since Brasserie Blanc has closed too.

Valentine's Day is just ten days away

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Sketch Valentine hamperValentine's Day is one of those annual events that doesn't really mean anything, but you still feel obliged to respond. It's all so ruthlessly commercial, with the ubiquitous heart-shaped chocolates, greeting cards with fat angels, and sparkling rosé.

And while it's said that money can't buy you love, Brits will spend a staggering £65,000 on romancing their loved ones during their lifetime, which is a clear indication that - recession or not - outrageous fiscal displays of affection have never been more popular.

It's not just jewellers, florists and expensive wine shops that get overrun by love-crazed customers desperately waving their credit cards. No, hotels and restaurants too are swamped by punters looking for that special place to whisper sweet nothings into their lovers' ears.

You can't really escape the craze, so despite all the cheese and tackiness, why not embrace it? After all, Valentine's Day comes around just once a year, so why not go all out and blow your hard earned cash?

There are numerous restaurants offering special Valentine's Day menus next Saturday but here are a few that might just bring out the Romeo or Juliet in you.

More bad news for Gordon Ramsay

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Gordon RamsayThe bad news just keep flooding in for Gordon Ramsay. After his PR agency was forced to deny his multi-Michelin-starred restaurant empire was hitting financial difficulties last week, you'd think the chef would need his friends and family there more than ever to support him. 

But unfortunately for Ramsay, celebrities seem to be as fickle as their fans and it looks like our most famous chef has been dumped by his A-list bosom buddies the Beckhams.

News emerged over the weekend that Victoria, aka Posh Spice, wants "nothing to do with Gordon" anymore after his alleged affair. The pair reportedly had plans to launch a restaurant together in LA but it looks like that's now off the table. 

And to make things even worse for sweary Ramsay, it's not just the Beckhams who have turned their backs on him. The public seems to have fallen out of love too, with his signature foul-mouthed antics. 

His latest tirade stirred up furious protests from Channel 4 viewers and MPs, who have urged OfCom to launch an investigation into Ramsay's Great British Nightmare

In the show, which attracted three million viewers, Ramsay served up no less than 312 swear words in just 103 minutes (that's one every 20 seconds). A new record, even for Ramsay.

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