What the critics say - a round up of the weekend's restaurant reviews

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The re-opening of the Canton Arms in London by the people involved with the Anchor and Hope in Waterloo and Great Queen Street in Covent Garden delights food critic Jay Rayner

Writing in The Observer, he describes the food served in all three pubs as hugely attractive - "rustic, solid, big flavours, no ingredient frottage".

The choice of just two desserts is typical of the rest of the brief menu which Rayner believes shows welcome self-confidence.  "The entire operation is without pretension; they are absolutely not trying to be all things to all people," he enthuses.

Zoe Williams, writing in The Sunday Telegraph, describes the West House in Biddendum, Kent as "as stylish place" that has earned a Michelin star under Graham Garrett, a protégé of Richard Corrigan.

Despite sampling some unusual concoctions - including a toffee-apple panna cotta with candy floss on top and a popcorn shot on the side - she finds Garrett's cooking to be carefully thought-out and mainly wonderful.

In Glasgow, Kate Spicer of The Sunday Times eats out at what has become one of the most sought-after venues in the city, the Crab Shakk.  Specialising in seafood, the cuisine, she says, lacks finesse, but the ambience is fun.  "If I walk out laughing more than I did when I went in, then I've had a good dinner."

Guy Dimond of Time Out is thrilled that Bruno Loubet - one of London's most celebrated chefs during the 1990s - has returned to these shores from Australia.  Now ensconced at a new eaterie that bears his name at the Zetter hotel in London EC1, Loubet is cooking French cuisine de terroir as brilliantly as he was doing on his previous stint in the city.

Dimond advises: "visit before Loubet goes walkabout again."

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