What the Critics Say - a round up of the weekend's restaurant reviews

Gordon Ramsay's latest version of Petrus has been slammed by AA Gill for failing to move with the times. The Sunday Times food critic doesn't like the uncomfortable, overdesigned space, the indifferent food or the service which constantly interrupts conversation.

"Everything about this restaurant, this food, this service, is hopelessly passé, utterly has-been," he says.

In The Daily Telegraph, Jasper Gerard enjoys a trip to Gloucestershire where he visits The Swan at Southrop.  Here, Sebastian and Lana Snow, previously at Snows on the Green in London, are running a pub which Gerard finds tastefully furnished, welcoming and offering good value food.

Tracey MacLeod, writing in The Independent, loves everything about The Royal Oak in Paley Street in Bray, Berkshire, the Michelin-starred pub owned by veteran chat-show host Michael Parkinson and run by his son Nick. Beyond the unprepossessing frontage she finds a warm welcome and a menu full of enticing traditional dishes that makes the most out of carefully prepared, Great British produce.

The Observer's Jay Rayner says the arrival of Bistrot Bruno Loubet at the Zetter hotel in east London has given heart to a previously listless restaurant.

"For many years, despite the efforts of skilled restaurateurs, the dining room of the Zetter Hotel in Clerkenwell looked like the kind of place where polite conversation went to die," he says. "Go have a look now. Sure, they've done stuff with the lighting, added a few vases of flowers, but the decor has one other vital ingredient that has made a difference: people. The place finally has a beating heart."

Giles Coren writing in The Times is impressed with tapas restaurant Barrica on London's Goodge Street. "Barrica is really very good indeed," he enthuses.