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Thumbnail image for What the Critics SayJay Rayner finds excellent Hunanese cooking at London restaurant Golden Day, which puts heat in his belly and sweat on his brow, calling for buckets of water.

The Observer's food critic says the flavours of the food served at the Chinese restaurant on Shaftsbury Avenue are so "utterly compelling, the hit so addictive that we kept going back, both knowing that there would be a price to pay".

"We knew we would suffer. We knew we would be left attempting to quench an all but unquenchable thirst. We didn't care," he says.

Lisa Markwell, writing in The Independent on Sunday, says London's iconic food store Fortnum & Mason sells fare fit for a Queen. But there can be no such gushing praise for its Fountain restaurant.

She says: "We start with two classics from a menu that has little other than classics - and there's nothing wrong with that, provided that they're done well. The problem is, they aren't."

Meanwhile, the Sunday Times' food critic AA Gill is thoroughly disappointed with both the food and atmosphere at The Crab at Chieveley in Berkshire where he finds a room filled with an air of complaints.

"The thing with complaints in a room is that they're catching, like yawns, or cholera. They go from plate to plate," he says. "Next to us, a couple got a corked bottle of wine. Next to them, a family waited for an hour for something they didn't order. And then the couple got another bottle of wine that was corked."

Writing in The Times Giles Coren finds brilliant food at the Harwood Arms in Fulham, south west London, the capital's first Michelin-starred gastropub owned by the Ledbury's Brett Graham.

The Independent's Tracey Macleod is disappointed by Michelin-starred Indian chef Atul Kochhar's latest restaurant Colony, a joint venture with the First Restaurant Group's Carlo Spetale. While it says Indian street food on the tin, its menu is far less casual than this implies.

Atul Kochhar to launch restaurant with Carlo Spetale

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Atul KochharIndian chef Atul Kochhar, chef-patron of the Michelin-starred Benares in London, has teamed up with restaurateur Carlo Spetale, owner of the First Restaurant Group, to launch a new venture in the capital.

Called Colony, the new restaurant will be modelled on the bars and clubs of the British Raj region in India and will open in Marylebone Village, west London, in February.

It will serve tapas style dishes inspired by Indian street food with Kochhar, who also runs Vatika on Hampshire's Wickham Vineyard, overseeing the menu.

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