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Thumbnail image for What the Critics SayGordon Ramsay's ability to spot a good restaurant is called into question by The Daily Telegraph's restaurant critic, Jasper Gerard, in his review of The Pheasant in Keyston, Cambridgeshire.

While the food at the gastropub had been portrayed on the F Word during Ramsay's search for the best local restaurant in the UK as accomplished and delicious, Gerard is served a baffling starter and chewy duck. He also finds the décor unloved and "rubbish" and the service unwelcoming.

"Chefs look down on critics because we can't cook, but this experience confirms that chefs can't critique," he says.

An uninspiring looking restaurant - Faanoos - on a suburban street in west London results in a surprisingly good experience for Matthew Norman of The Guardian.

"Early in the decade though it may be for long-term predictions, I can't imagine the next 10 years producing a more pleasingly curious or curiously pleasing meal than the one at Faanoos," he declares, having enjoyed a lavish selection of Persian dishes at ridiculously low prices.

In complete contrast, The Observer's Jay Rayner is convinced that his meal at The Criterion, on London's Piccadilly Circus will probably be his worst of 2010.

Now owned by a group of entrepreneurs from the former Soviet republic of Georgia, the Criterion serves Rayner a shot glass of tangerine liquid which makes him wince, scorched roast venison, overcooked sea bass and langoustine which had not been rid of its intestines.

Meanwhile, Martin Ivens heads out to The Pearson's Arms in Whitstable, Kent, for The Sunday Times and enjoys friendly, hospitable service and locally sourced pub food. He says the restaurant is well priced and is keen to return to a venue where the quaint, but warm interior, was "a cheerful tonic".

The Independent's Tracey MacLeod finds it refreshing to choose between dishes that were almost completely unfamiliar at Georgian restaurant Tamada in north London. But while the food is good, she says the chilly, empty modern restaurant fails to capture the spirit of Georgian conviviality.

What the Critics SayGuardian food critic Matthew Norman believes Gordon Ramsay made a big mistake ejecting Surbiton's French Table from his quest to find the best local restaurant on Channel 4's F Word.

Norman declares The French Table in Surbiton, run by Eric and Sarah Guignard, to be a superb local restaurant, despite the tweeness of the décor. 

He suggests that if Channel 4 recommissions the show, it shouldn't send Ramsay to patronise restaurants like The French Table, but instead send Eric and Sarah to advise him on how to save some of his establishments.

John Walsh of the Independent is full of praise for the Dean Street Townhouse in London W1, the first venture from the new partnership between Richard Caring and Nick Jones.

"The Townhouse is self-consciously old-fashioned in many ways, but its appeal is straight to the stomach and the heart, in that order," he declares. 

"Caring and Jones have taken the best bits of their respective empires and melded them seamlessly together: vintage class meets modern arty hangout; J Sheekey meets Soho House."

Despite enjoying excellent food at Chris and Jeff Galvin's latest venture, Galvin La Chapelle, Observer critic Jay Rayner felt short-changed. Among his complaints were service he found "the sickly side of ingratiating" and prices that includede a côte de boeuf for two at £53.

Meanwhile, AA Gill at the Sunday Times believes he has found perfection at the Kingham Ploughin Oxfordshire, where he tucks into the kind of pub food that one always dreams about.  He suggests that anyone thinking of opening a local pub restaurant should visit The Kingham Plough and see the gold standard.

His only concern was  that such a wonderful operation could only be sustained by London folk, and not the locals alone.

Gordon Ramsay's F Word is failing

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Gordon RamsayGordon Ramsay's unpopularity seems to have reached a new low as his latest season of the F Word has been moved to a late-night slot.

Usually screened at 9pm, the Channel 4 show has been shifted to a 10pm slot after ratings dropped to less than two million for the first couple of shows of the new series.

Worried bosses are also re-editing episodes to appeal more to food fans, according to the Mirror.

Last night's show was scheduled to show actress Kelly Brook making stuffed peppers (how inspiring!) but she was edited out to focus on independent restaurants and recipes.

Channel 4 reportedly said the programmes had been rescheduled for "strategic purposes prior to the series' launch". Oh reeeeeaaally...

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