Recently in Menus Category

What the Critics Say - a round up of the weekend's restaurant reviews

| No Comments | No TrackBacks

Thumbnail image for What the Critics SayDespite a limited wine list and an extortionate bill at £115.10 for two at lunch, Jasper Gerard enjoys the Japanese tapas style menu at ex-Nobu chef Tomonari Chiba's restaurant Dinings in London. 

"The chef is uncompromising in his use of quality ingredients (truffle, bass, lobster, oyster, crab, duck)," the The Daily Telegraph's food critic says as he tucks into a wide selection of dishes.

In Glasgow, Tracey MacLeod of The Independent visits Crabshakk and finds that a pleasingly mixed clientele, crisp but friendly service and decent prices make the seafood restaurant a winning operation.

Meanwhile other reviewers are not so fortunate in their choice of restaurant. Giles Coren, writing in The Times, describes Babbo in London as "one of the new breed of Italian restaurants in Mayfair (Cipriani set the trend, Dolada followed most recently) that serve competent food at ridiculous prices and make you feel ill to the bottom of your mortal soul".

And in Manchester, The Observer's Jay Rayner finds that Glamorous, a Chinese restaurant with a seating capacity of 600 set in a business centre next to a multi-storey car park, is anything but glamorous. While he admits the experience at times is entertaining, the food itself is either odd or weird.

The Guardian's Matthew Norman is forced to have lunch twice after ending up at the wrong restaurant but is impressed with the food and service at Chinese restaurant Ba Shan in London in the end.

Francesco Mazzei and Pierre Koffmann search for the perfect gnocchi potato

| No Comments | No TrackBacks

Francesco Mazzei and Pierre Koffmann Last week, Italian chef Francesco Mazzei, co-owner of L'Anima in the City of London (which is closing for an extension this summer), went on a mission to find the perfect potato for gnocchi.

Mazzei and his team of chefs set out to test three different varieties of potatoes to see which one would make the best base for the Italian staple, with iconic French chef Pierre Koffmann testing the final product.

The varieties of potatoes on the menu were: Markies, Ramos and Sierra Gold which were supplied by QV Foods.

Thumbnail image for Francesco Mazzei makes spinach gnocchiAfter boiling, peeling and ricing the potatoes, the chefs added flower and egg yolk to make the gnocchi dough, which they rolled out into strips, cut into pieces and shaped with a ridged, wooden gnocchi board.

First up was the Markies potato, which Mazzei mixed with dried spinach to give the gnocchi a vivid green colour. Markies are the new rival of the ever popular Maris Piper; they are a good all-round kitchen potato with a floury texture and mild flavour.

Mazzei served the Markies gnocchi with basil pesto and the result was a bright green plate of food made up of gorgeous, light and fluffy gnocchi perfectly balanced by the sweet basil sauce. "A definite winner," judge Koffmann declared.  

Waitrose signs up Delia Smith and Heston Blumenthal

| No Comments | No TrackBacks

Delia Smith and Heston BlumenthalMiddle-class supermarket Waitrose has followed in the footsteps of its less glamorous competitors Sainsbury's and Aldi by enlisting the help of celebrity chefs to boost sales.

But where Sainsbury's long-running partnership with Jamie Oliver and Aldi's ad campaign featuring Phil Vickery rely on just one famous face, Waitrose has outdone them both by appointing two celebrities.

And an unlikely pair they are: domestic goddess Delia Smith and culinary wizard and three-Michelin-starred super chef Heston Blumenthal.

The pair has been appointed as "food ambassadors for the Waitrose brand, sharing their expertise and showcasing recipes". Which basically means that, over the next three years, they will appear in TV and print ads enthusing about Waitrose's range of products.

In a first for British TV, Waitrose will broadcast a new advert every week for the rest of the year demonstrating a new recipe, which will run for the entire length of the ad break. The campaign will kick off on 15 March. 

The partnership, a first for Waitrose which has never before used celebrity chefs, may come as a surprise to hardcore Delia fans who will no doubt remember her rant against celebrities endorsing products. 

The deal also comes just months after a leaked BBC report alleged Delia had "limited appeal" relegating her to the "occasional sparkle" category.

What the Critics Say - a round up of the weekend's restaurant reviews

| No Comments | No TrackBacks

Thumbnail image for What the Critics SayTwo-Michelin-starred chef Phil Howard's latest restaurant, Kitchen W8 in London, is a must-consider for anyone in Kensington with something to celebrate, says restaurant critic John Walsh.

Writing in The Independent, Walsh is impressed by both the food and the service at Kitchen W8, which is a joint venture between Howard and restaurateur Rebecca Mascarenhas.

However, he is less keen on the prices. "With most starters costing £8.50 and main courses mostly north of £15 (rib-eye steak is £19.50) it's hardly snack territory," he says.

Meanwhile, The Guardian's Matthew Norman is effusive in his review of the Dean Street Townhouse, which is the first new joint offering from Nick Jones' Soho House Group and Richard Caring, owner of Caprice Holdings.  

"It mingles the bustle and slickness of the grand, all-day Parisian brasserie with a determinedly anti-Michelin English menu and a room cunningly designed (distressed mirrors, grand bar, wood panelling) for that ultra-voguish, modern media Soho clubland feel," Norman says. 

Meanwhile the new head chef at Gilpin Lodge in Windemere, Cumbria, received the seal of approval from Jasper Gerard in The Daily Telegraph. Despite fearing the place might be all cream teas and doilies, he is delighted to find that, as well as being friendly, informal and full, the food prepared by Russell Plowman is top notch.

In The Times, Giles Coren says his visit to new Japanese restaurant Aqua Kyoto atop the former Dickins & Jones building on London's Regent Street, was a fun experience. As well as consuming great cocktails and good sushi, he also enjoys the stunning night views.

Jay Rayner of The Observer finds a far better-than-average local restaurant in Maison Bleue in Bury St Edmonds, Suffolk. Efficient, friendly service and perfectly judged fish cookery makes the town "a very nice place to be".

Chris Horridge to leave Cliveden as Von Essen confirms restructure and refurbishment

| No Comments | No TrackBacks

Chris HorridgeChris Horridge is to leave his role of executive head chef at Cliveden in Berkshire after just one year.

Following industry rumours last week, hotel group Von Essen has confirmed the chef's departure and announced plans for a restructure and refurbishment of the property.

Cliveden will undergo a "culinary team restructure" across its three restaurants Waldo's, the Terrace Dining Room and the Cliveden Club Restaurant, the group said.

Horridge, who has been overseeing Waldo's, will leave the hotel next month.

Von Essen has also unveiled plans for an £8m refurbishment programme of Cliveden, which will comprise the revamp of its 38 bedrooms as well as all public areas including the restaurants. The company also hopes to introduce a new spa which is currently subject to planning permission.

Nick Romano, chief executive officer at Von Essen, said the company "would like to thank Chris for his hard work and wish him all the very best for the future".

Horridge joined Cliveden last spring from the Bath Priory, where he held a Michelin star. He replaced former executive chef Robert Thompson who had left Cliveden after just eight months to set up his own restaurant on the Isle of Wight.

A Great British Menu contestant Horridge has garnered critical acclaim for his health-conscious approach to fine dining without the use of sugar, dairy or wheat.

What the Critics Say - a round up of the weekend's restaurant reviews

| 2 Comments | No TrackBacks

Thumbnail image for What the Critics SayMatthew Norman of The Guardian is keen to find out why Alain Ducasse at the Dorchester recently achieved Michelin's top accolade of three stars. But having enjoyed a meal that was good and sporadically brilliant, he suspects it may be something to do with the name.

"Then again, perfection is a subjective concept, and I wouldn't wish to discourage any of you who have at least £110 a head to spare," he says.

Meanwhile The Times' Giles Coren declares the Galvin brother's latest restaurant Galvin La Chapelle in east London one of the capital's grandest restaurants.

"They have opened in a bleak financial time and are doing what looks like raging business regardless, because brilliant, original, top-end restaurants that look immediately as if they have always been there are what the Galvin brothers do best," Coren enthuses.

The Observer's Jay Rayner says that if the menu at Cabbage Hall in Little Budworth, Cheshire, wasn't so pretentious, he might have enjoyed his meal there a lot more.

Lisa Markwell, writing in The Independent on Sunday, describes The Artichoke in Old Amersham, Buckinghamshire, as a great neighbourhood restaurant which diners should visit before it becomes difficult to get a table. Having recently reopened following a fire, she says the redesign by Claire Nelson is exactly right, while chef Laurie Gear's food is accomplished.

AA Gill readily admits in The Sunday Times that he has ignored rural restaurants in the past because most of them wouldn't last a week in Putney. After eating a Milan in Wooler, Northumberland, he says that while this is true of the restaurant, the experience also showed him that he needs to eat his words. "Most Putney restaurants wouldn't last a week in Wooler," he says.

The Royal Oak, a tenanted pub run by David Rhys-Jones, the brother-in-law of Prince Edward, in Romney Marsh, Kent, receives a vote of confidence from the Daily Telegraph's food critic, Jasper Gerard.

What the Critics Say - a round up of the weekend's restaurant reviews

| No Comments | No TrackBacks

Thumbnail image for What the Critics SayDaniel Clifford was amongst a trio of Michelin-starred-chefs who came under the microscope of the restaurant critics this weekend.

Matthew Norman of The Guardian was surprised to find that his much lauded restaurant Midsummer House in Cambridge is being run for the benefit of its customers rather than inspectors. "So it bloody well should be, you might say on noting the price, but it has been a long time since I paid a bill nudging £80 a head (we had just two glasses of house wine between us) without a rush of psychotic resentment," he said.

However, at the Bingham restaurant in Richmond, John Walsh of The Independent experienced the results of a Michelin-starred chef - Shay Cooper - who is has allowed his creativity to run away with itself. "By the end, we were a tad irritated by that common phenomenon: the chef who disregards what you want and gives you what he thinks may impress you," he complained.

Meanwhile Brett Graham, who has just been awarded a second star at the Ledbury, impressed Jasper Gerard in The Daily Telegraph who said the Australian chef was producing some brilliant food.

The Times' Giles Coren and The Observer's Jay Rayner have different views on the Dean Street Townhouse, the latest venture from Soho House Group. While Coren goes overboard in his enthusiasm for the venue, Rayner is disappointed with its traditional British menu. "There is absolutely no excuse for taking peasant food and gussying it up to such a degree that it loses all sense of purpose," Rayner laments.

What the Critics Say - a round up of the weekend's restaurant reviews

| No Comments | No TrackBacks

Thumbnail image for What the Critics SayGordon Ramsay's ability to spot a good restaurant is called into question by The Daily Telegraph's restaurant critic, Jasper Gerard, in his review of The Pheasant in Keyston, Cambridgeshire.

While the food at the gastropub had been portrayed on the F Word during Ramsay's search for the best local restaurant in the UK as accomplished and delicious, Gerard is served a baffling starter and chewy duck. He also finds the décor unloved and "rubbish" and the service unwelcoming.

"Chefs look down on critics because we can't cook, but this experience confirms that chefs can't critique," he says.

An uninspiring looking restaurant - Faanoos - on a suburban street in west London results in a surprisingly good experience for Matthew Norman of The Guardian.

"Early in the decade though it may be for long-term predictions, I can't imagine the next 10 years producing a more pleasingly curious or curiously pleasing meal than the one at Faanoos," he declares, having enjoyed a lavish selection of Persian dishes at ridiculously low prices.

In complete contrast, The Observer's Jay Rayner is convinced that his meal at The Criterion, on London's Piccadilly Circus will probably be his worst of 2010.

Now owned by a group of entrepreneurs from the former Soviet republic of Georgia, the Criterion serves Rayner a shot glass of tangerine liquid which makes him wince, scorched roast venison, overcooked sea bass and langoustine which had not been rid of its intestines.

Meanwhile, Martin Ivens heads out to The Pearson's Arms in Whitstable, Kent, for The Sunday Times and enjoys friendly, hospitable service and locally sourced pub food. He says the restaurant is well priced and is keen to return to a venue where the quaint, but warm interior, was "a cheerful tonic".

The Independent's Tracey MacLeod finds it refreshing to choose between dishes that were almost completely unfamiliar at Georgian restaurant Tamada in north London. But while the food is good, she says the chilly, empty modern restaurant fails to capture the spirit of Georgian conviviality.

What the Critics Say - a round up of the weekend's restaurant reviews

| No Comments | No TrackBacks

What the Critics SayTom Kitchin, chef-proprietor of the Micheli-starred Kitchin in Edinburgh, receives fulsome praise from Jasper Gerard in The Daily Telegraph for scouring the Highlands for the best quality ingredients.

The result is an exceptionally well produced menu that is unashamedly Scottish, hardy rather than twirly, showcasing the influence of Kitchin's mentors Pierre Koffmann and Alain Ducasse.

Meanwhile Sicilian restaurant Mennula garners another rave review, with John Walsh in The Independent praising chef-patron Santino Busciglio's knack of combining his grandmother's recipes with new flavours.

In The Times Giles Coren takes up a new cause: that of the vegetarian diner. In his search for a restaurant that serves non-meat eaters with something that is inspiring and enticing, he comes up with a corker in Philip Howard's new restaurant, Kitchen W8 in London.

His counterpart at the Sunday Times, AA Gill, is equally impressed with Kitchen W8 saying that while the food isn't quite as immaculately pristine as The Square, it is far better than anything else you can eat in Kensington.

Jay Rayner, restaurant critic of The Observer, pays a visit to Polpo, a Venetian-style bacaro in London's Soho, and likes what he finds. He is impressed by the authentic bare brick walls and distressed painted wood and - apart from a couple of minor gripes - with the quality and the price of the food, which is served tapas-style.

What the Critics Say - a round up of the weekend's restaurant reviews

| No Comments | No TrackBacks

What the Critics SayOne of London's longest-standing and most consistent of restaurants, La Poule au Pot in Belgravia, impresses The Guardian's food critic, Matthew Norman, with its delightful décor and familiar French bistro cooking.

He takes fellow journalist Simon Heffer and together they tuck into a selection of Gallic favourites, including moules marinières and boeuf  bourguignon. "There can't be a more charming, cosy, nook-and-crannyish restaurant," he says of La Poule au Pot which has been welcoming customers since 1962.

A more recent arrival on the capital's dining scene is the Dean Street Townhouse, in Soho, which is the first major venture between Nick Jones, founder of the Soho House Group, and Richard Caring, the owner of Caprice Holdings which operates top London restaurants including Le Caprice, The Ivy and J Sheekey.

Toby Young says in The Independent on Sunday that during dinner there he found a restaurant that has the appearance of a luxury gentleman's club with a menu that is "like a stripped-down version of The Ivy's, with plenty of modern British staples".

Categories

Recent Comments

  • David: Myself and my wife have boycotted Raymonds new show as read more
  • Franky99: Just saw JJ win. Biggest Joke of 2009 and 2010. read more
  • Anonymous: The show has been airing here in America for a read more
  • Cat: If the programme was about teaching people, then I've been read more
  • Jenny Berger: I have just found this site with all its comments read more
  • Joyce Malone: Poeple are still commenting about this specific episode of a read more
  • live2 eat: A wonderfully talented chef - totally wasted on Von Essen. read more
  • Guide Girl: Thanks for your message, I'm on it. Spoke to Chris read more
  • live2eat: I just read that Chris Horridge is leaving Cliveden; is read more
  • Adam Tinworth: Certainly not boring. Not 100% convinced that a knee-trembler in read more